Ritratto di Mademoiselle Emilienne Le Roy, 1912
Giovanni Boldini
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Promenade du Matin, by Paul Gavarni c. 1830s.
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Hello ! I was curious, I haven't been able to find a name for this specific decoration at the ends of furisode sleeves with the knots and tassels, do you have any idea what they're called or more info on them? (Your blog is a wonderful resource and gallery, thank you !)
Hi and thank you for your kind words <3
You're lucky, I've been through that specific rabbit hole before ;) You can find those past posts wondering about kamuro apprentices fashion here and here ;)
TLDR: I don't have a specific answer as they're refered by several names - generic terms sodekukuri/sodegukuri (sleeve tie) or sode no himo (sleeve "ribbon") being the most prevalent.
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I found this autochrome photo (very early colour photography) from the early 1900s-1910s of a woman in a dress that appears to be inspired by Empress Josephine’s coronation gown!
I am so in shock because this genuinely looks like a photo of Josephine.
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solid perfume necklace in the shape of a mussel from estée lauder, 1974
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@lingerie_addict has a really cool thread on ancient fashion over on twitter.
Those source links are here
cambridge.org
Youtube
ucl.ac.uk
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FWIW, "mauve" was one of the coal-tar dyes developed in the mid-19th century that made eye-wateringly bright clothing fashionable for a few decades.
It was an eye-popping magenta purple
HOWEVER, like most aniline dyes, it faded badly, to a washed-out blue-grey ...
...which was the color ignorant youngsters in the 1920s associated with “mauve”.
(This dress is labeled "mauve" as it is the color the above becomes after fading).
They colored their vision of the past with washed-out pastels that were NOTHING like the eye-popping electric shades the mid-Victorians loved. This 1926 fashion history book by Paul di Giafferi paints a hugely distorted, I would say dishonest picture of the past.
Ever since then this faded bluish lavender and not the original electric eye-watering hot pink-purple is the color associated with the word “mauve”.
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Étude du matin by Paul Gavarni, March 9, 1839.
Still in the 1830s, although these two young men are spiritually in the 1840s already with the long hair and questionable facial hair decisions. One smokes a trendy chibouk pipe and shows a great view of straps on his trousers.
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Tintype of what appears to be a light-hearted spot of stabbing between friends, circa 1880
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• Dress.
Date: 1967
Designer/Maker: Ann Lowe
Place of origin: United States: New York, New York City
Medium: Silk, cotton, velvet.
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