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Four Dalmations

Croatia June 14-22, 2019

Quick summary - 7 days in the Dalmatian Coast - 2 nights in Spilt, 2 nights in Hvar, 3 nights in Dubrovnik. Weather was incredible with blue skies every day, highs in the 80s and lows in the 70s. Much warmer than I expected as winds were nil. See final thoughts after.

Saturday, 6/14

Landed Dubrovnik after a new direct flight from Philly (which apparently is a big deal as all the Croatians knew about and asked us about it. Maybe the only direct flight from the US.) We were driven to Spilt to start our journey. About a 4 hour drive (and through the odd little stretch of Bosnia, which is a pain for passport checks,) it is very picturesque along the coastline seeing the water the entire time, the oyster “fields,” the agricultural valley, and vineyards all along the way. Also lots of open mouth naps en route.

We arrived to a very crowded Split...can’t imagine July and August. We were staying at the Hotel Vestibul, which is a unique and modern very small hotel carved out of the vestibul of the Diocletian Palace, a huge walled former palace of the Roman Emperor Diocletian, built around 230 AD and now Spilt’s Old Town. In the Dark Ages, it became a village within the walls and remains the old town today full of narrow passageways and charming nooks and piazzas. You can dodge the crowds once on the interior away from the Dalmatian singers, cruise ship crowds, weekenders, and waterfront. Once inside, you will find a sophisticated and hip world full of restaurants and shops and millions of sobe (rooms.) The Croats are not dumb with every enterprising option possible for travel to the islands, activities, açaí bowls, etc.

Tip - I’m not an AirBnB person, but Europe apparently is a great place to do it as they are all supposed to be quite nice.

A mix of all its past history, Croatian food illustrates this as evidenced on the menu. Lunch was the highlight after long travels and the hotel suggested Uje Oil, clearly a modern enterprising owner (tapas like olive oil bar) where we landed at an outside table for a perfect meal of trying the Croatian favs including Italian-like arugula pesto pasta, sausages showing the Hungarian influence, and pasticada, the traditional stew over gnocchi for a mix of the two. Known for its wines, fun fact is that Croatia has been traced as the origin of the Zinfandel grape. We dove in with a light white from Istria, the Malvasia grape. Perf. nap. Eat again at Brokeria, a very hip, casual buzzy spot inside the palace walls. A sparkling rose from Istria from the Tehran grape, octopus on the grill, pasta with truffles (in season and not crazy expensive like in Italy,) smoked seafood risotto and sea bass over a cauliflower mash. Nice. (Others to consider are Zoi and Paradox.)

Sunday, June 16

Maja #1 (pronounced Maya - 30 letters in the Croatian alphabet with lots of consonants) met us at 10am for a historical tour of the Diocletian Palace and surrounding area which was quite interesting taking you from the evolvement of all of the Croatian history from the late Roman Empire, to the Dark Ages of the Barbarians to the Middle Ages of the Christians to the Renaissance of the Venetians Empire, through to a short stint of the Napoleonic French through the Austrian Hapsburgs. (Oh and home to some of the Game of Thrones filming.)

Afterwards, we went to the Kozjak Mountain slope around the Kastel township for a private lunch. Most interesting was listening to Maja talk about where she lived. Her family was originally from the area, but her parents had left and moved to Sarajevo for better work opps. Their summer home was still in the area. When the war broke out with Serbia in 1992 invading first on the Dalmation coast, they told family to move to Sarajevo. That was poor advice as then the Serbs invaded Bosnia and Sarajevo. Her family escaped Sarajevo back to the coast. In this area, you typically lived in good size homes, but of several apartments with other family members, with your own bit of olive trees, maybe fruit trees (cherries in season now,) small vineyard, etc. Enough to make your own of each (or have small producers make for you.) Lunch setting was in a peaceful (Biblical) park with a vineyard and church backdrop. The weather was gorgeous, but hot. The five course meal was remarkable with local pairings of wine. Most notable was the Zinfandel and various types of posip and plavac mali wines.

Back for down time, which Relia and I spent in Zara before we reworked our plans of going to Dvor restaurant on the coast and hiring a boat to take us to Trogir, Croatia’s Little Venice. An small island about 30-40 minutes by car and the same by 20’ center console boat, it is a large marina area, much like the old town of charming limestone mass of buildings and not quite as crowded. The recommended restaurant of TRS was booked, so we landed at Trogar, our chef of the day’s restaurant. It was marginal at best, surprising given the sophisticated and creative meal at lunch, but Robert made us welcome with his final offer of carob rakija liquor. (Other restaurant options suggested was Alka and Marijana.) Back to Split by Uber, plentiful and cheap and always an unusual sensation to me at home and really strange overseas. To bed.

Monday, June 17

Thomas, the Atlantic Marine outfitter skipper met us at the town port just in front of the main gate and Hotel Vestibul entrance in a 25’ motor boat. A two hour ride to the Pakleni Islands off Hvar Island for sun and fun. First swim spot was Stonica, (loved the circled up catamarans pumping pop music for a week of partying. On then to Palmizana Island that has 3 restaurants - we chose the Langanini Bar for lite bites, cabanas, bean bags, and tree cabanas. Most expensive meal yet! but a great change up of Asian food. We headed for Havr Grad (town) to check into the Adriana Spa Hotel, right on the main harbor riva (promenade.) Quite modern, perhaps OTT and thus lacking in some practicalities and maybe Fodor’s is right that it sometimes misses on the 5 star with just small hiccups.) BUT still very lux, sleek and incredible views. We didn’t spa, but it seemed top notch if you like that. Serious breakfast buffet included.

Met our guide at 5pm for an 11k walk to the abandoned village of Malo Grablje for a special dinner at the “home” of a former resident’s whose son opened a restaurant here 10 years ago. The hike was beautiful along the coastal path, but could be shortened by taking a car to the path rather than walking from the hotel. Also would be cooler at this hour since the road is exposed to the afternoon sun and rather toasty. Eat a snack before you go and it is rocky so sturdy shoes. The village was just left by all the inhabitants in the 1960s and now too many family members own the buildings, so they can’t agree on selling anything.

The meal was spectacular with the traditional one pot dish slow cooked in the coals of Peka made with veggies, meats (ours was lamb and veal) or seafood, house made wine and warm just-made sugar coated almonds with Proshec (carob liquor) to finish. Taxi home for sure.

Tuesday, June 18

We met Filip, [phone], our new skipper who was funny and confident with incredible English learned from gaming on War Craft. Off to the Blue Cave, which is a grotto from the volcanic island of Bisevo of incredible blues from the light seeping in under the rock formations. Beautiful and unique, but skippable. Its crowded, though they move the small touring boats along quickly.

We were ready to escape the crowds and swim, so we toured rugged and cave areas of Vis and then to Stinivia cove for a swim. Fairly crowded and the water some debris since its a cove, but still the Adriatic color and temp is totally refreshing. The bathing suit and nationality watching is unending entertainment.

Though there is a small cafe there, we bailed and headed to the port town of Vis Grad which Filip described as large, but was actually small and rather sleepy. He made quick reservation at Tavern (Konoba) Vatrica, which was perfect. Covered terrace on the waterfront, casual with ham and cheese, grilled prawns, salad with creamy feta, Vis rose...perfect. Back for a few more swims at yesterday’s caves by way of the WWI tunnels and lookout plus the WWII submarine tunnel hideout since it was an allied base. The Yugoslavs took it over as there military areas post war.

Cleaned up and a drink in the Hotel Top Bar for the views, a few hands of cards and then a walk to the sunset and apres beach scene at Hula Hula. Def. a scene with bride tribes and more. Canceled our dinner at Gariful - tired of sit down spots and headed to Filip recommended Lola, a small, back street, alley outdoor cafe of excellently prepared “street food”, action packed with the young and DJ thumping remix 90s tunes. Filip also recommended Passarola, a cool and hip looking restaurant off the town square alley with several terraced garden spaces. Would have been perf if we wanted a less casual spot. Back for a rooftop finale round of cards...can’t get enough of the view.

Wednesday, June 19

Yay! Back in the boat with Filip to head to Dubrovnik by way of Korcula, Orebic, and Ston. Korcula, home of Marco Polo and the Silk Road, is a charming town and would be a great place to stay a night or two. Then onto Orebic, on the Peljesac peninsula, considering the best wine growing region in Croatia. We had a stop for a wine tasting at Korta Katarina, a winery estate and lux hotel started by Americans. It was interesting, but unless you are really into wine, skippable. On to Ston, home of the best oysters in the world. A short boat ride to an oyster farmer’s private island to learn about how the oysters are grown, and then a delightful starter of oysters and huge pot of mussels alla buzzara (in white wine, olive oil, garlic and onions) under the shade by the water. Also homemade wine and myrtle berry infused grappa, a very typical aperitif throughout. D.I.V.I.N.E.

Back in the van for an hour trip along the coastline to Dubrovnik. If you thought Spilt was crowded, wow. Though a much smaller city than Spilt, it feels WAY more crowded and much more intense because of being located on the hillside as well as the old city attraction....not to mention the Game of Thrones/Kings Landing magnet.

A reservation mix up which had us for 3 nights at the Excelsior Hotel, switched us to their sister hotel Bellevue. Our Croatian travel agency Calvados Club upgraded our rooms significantly as a result and while it is a 20 minute walk to town vs. a 5 minute walk, it is a smaller hotel, larger rooms and totally renovated on a gorgeous cove that made it feel very private (despite the public beach - all Croatian beaches are public.) Lovely indoor pool, unreal views, very hip and cool. We may have turned out better in the long run.

Poor planning on our fault when we booked the Michelin starred restaurant in Dubrovnik - 360 - for dinner after the oyster and mussels fest. But we were ready and it was quite the gastronomic affair with delightful views and service.

Thursday, June 20

Maja #2, met us to take us to the 3 hr kayak tour from the old city by Fort Lovrijenac around the island of Lokrum and back. Very fun. A few dips and viewing of the nudie beach...a head shaker for me. We walked home so Will could grab a recommended xxxcici sammy while the rest of us ate at the Bellevue beachside cafe and lounged Adriatic style at the Bellevue carved out private beach with umbrellas and chaises, and beach boys while watching the cliff jumpers and reading on the rocky beach. The water temp is just perfect and the water is incredibly clear. I am a huge Adriatic fan.

Maja picked us up at 4 pm for a walking tour of the Old Town concluding with the one mile walk around the city walls for amazing views of the yachts, charming houses, islands and Adriatic. Ready for another break from traditional food and restaurants, we hit a bar on the water built into the walls before having “CroAsian” food at Azur in one of the back/side streets. It was casual and delicious. Highly recommend.

Friday, June 21

Off to the Konavle valley, also known for its wineries and vegetable fields, and fruit orchards to Grude for biking through the countryside and vineyards. Gorgeous backdrop of the stone mountains, cypress trees and once gain crystal blue skies. This area was so named for its system of canals used to irrigate the crops....Roman aqueducts brought water to the area. Very bucolic and well known for its wine and history. A two hour on and off road before meeting Maja to go to a local farm in Cilipi at the home of Marin Vukorep ([email protected]) for a delightful meal very similar to Malo Grablje, but maybe more fun with everything consumed from the farm (prosciutto, goat cheese, bread, olive olive, vegetable purée soup, peka, red and white wine and over 10 homemade rakija varieties with fig, walnut, apricot, etc. Lots of fun - gorgeous setting, relaxing, interesting and another gorgeous day. Debated going to the seaside town of Cavtat, but too full and sleepy!

Back for more Adriatic indulgence and a regroup on dinner (again) after such a large lunch. Bailed on Posat wanting a casual place and discussed Bar Bota for mussels, Kamenice, Tabasco pizzeria, Taj Mahal Bosnian food and Levanat in the Lapad area, but ended up at Mea Culpa pizzeria in the Old Town which was perfect. And that’s a wrap.

Saturday, June 22

Well, not quite as William and I were awaiting the Fort opening at 8am to check it out since we could still use our wall ticket. Check. So long for now.

Final thoughts - We loved everything we did, where we stayed, food and history. The two things we might have changed were the Blue Cave and wine tasting. Everything else was great with enough time to sightsee and yet enjoy the summer time water activities. We might change a few things, but it really depends on one’s MO. We might have stayed in Trogir or Hvar and done a day boat trip to Spilt and Trogir for at least 3 or even 4 nights in the islands perhaps with an overnight in Korcula and maybe just two nights in Dubrovnik. The history is incredible dating back to the Greeks and Romans and throughout right up to modern day with the too recent Yugoslav wars. Mid June is already packed and I would not even think about going in July or August unless you stay on a boat or in the islands. May would be too early for me to enjoy water fun, but Sept should still be very good. Plus July and August would be really hot. Climate is just like NC - hot and humid with lots of the same vegetation. The Croatians are very proud of their country and really do tourism well. It is not a sophisticated 3rd world country like Italy, though there probably is still lots of government corruption and low wages. It is a energized and modern that is savvy about its tourism.

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Arizona & Utah - National Parks

30 Years & Parkatecture

A 9 day tour of the National Parks of Arizona and Utah. 

The Short Version (read on for more details)

Thursday-Saturday, April 23-25 2021

Historic El Tovar

Dinner in the dining room both nights

Kaibab Trail

Scenic Drive

 Saturday, April 24

All en route to our next set of stops:

Glen Canyon

Navajo Historical Bridge over the Colorado  River and numerous rafts having just started their jaunt into the Grand Canyon from Lee’s Ferry Page Horseshoe Bend Under Cover Lake Powell glamping “resort.” 

 Sunday, April 25

Boat rentals were out due to weather/winds so visited Wahweap Marina Lone Rock Beach Zion and Zion Lodge Zion Adventures to figure out the Narrows Hike dinner in Springdale at Oscar’s

 Monday, April 26

Angel’s Landing hike

Whiptail restaurant in Springdale for lunch Zion Lodge for dinner

 Tuesday, April 27

Bryce Canyon National Park is a much higher altitude at 9100 ft and thus the rain of Zion was snow at Bryce. 

The Lodge at Bryce Canyon

Figure 8 trail which combines the Navajo, Peekaboo and Queen’s Garden Trails Dinner in Zion Lodge

 Wednesday, April 28

Capital Reef National Park via Scenic Highway 12 Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument Cassidy’s Arch Trail. A+.

12 mile very rustic scenic drive

Moab Hilton Curio Collection Hoo Doo Hotel Antica Forma Italian restaurant

 Thursday, April 29

Canyonlands National Park

The Maze

scenic drive, hiked several 2-3 mile hikes (XXX) Dead Horse State Park Dinner at Josie Wyatt restaurant

 Friday, April 30

Arches

Salt Lake City - Kimpton Monaco Hotel.

HSL restaurant

LDS Temple

 Know before you go

Utah liquor laws are odd. No food no drinks. 1.5 oz only per drink Lots of places with only beer and wine, though marijuana is legal. Go figure.

Study up on the Moab area esp how to attack Canyonlands which takes more than a day unless you just do Island in the Sky area, but it deserves much more than that. And there is something for everyone - esp if hiking is not for you - 4x4, airplane flights, etc.

Avoid the parks on the weekend if at all possible.  Esp Zion and Arches I would not go to any of the Utah parks if you are going to do fairly serious hiking much after mid-May IMO. And def not the Grand Canyon. Books say start back in Sept...TBD. The heat and dry air are dangerous.

The Utah parks in particular are great for families as there are lots of short and fairly easy options climbing all over the rocks. Not so much for the Grand Canyon.

I might do southern Utah separate from the Moab area....so much to do in both areas on their own.  Could combine Moab with some of Colorado.

Consider going to the parks during winter for a different experience esp Bryce where there is lots of cross country skiing and snowshoeing. There would also be plenty of snowmobiling.

Capital Reef is an easy park to do in a day. No huge need to spend a night here.  We were glad we went on to Moab. Great park though cause it’s not crowded.

If you are visiting 3 parks in one year, an $80 annual pass will be a great investment and for a good cause.

Gran Canyon Tips

Def do the Kaibab Trail over the Bright Angel Trail...way better scenery and more dramatic Don’t go in the summer months period; Early May would be the latest I would go It’s coldest on the rim where it at 6000’. Every 1000’ descent, add 5 degrees Do lots of the overlooks on the rim scenic drive; all a bit different Layers and more layers Electrolytes The Grandview Trail looked like a great option as well.

THE FULL VERSION

Thursday, April 22, 2021 - Grand Canyon

In yet another reason to hate Ameican Airlines, our direct flight was cancelled 48 hrs before departure now with stop and change in DFW. 😡 But such is a travel and it didn’t suppress excitement and anticipation other than cut down on a potential late afternoon activity. Arrived Phoenix 1:30 and set off in our new home, a Mazda CX-5 past Sedona, to Flagstaff and felt right at home on I-40, except the end destination is LA, not Wilmington.

First stop is What-a-Burger for lunch and convenience store for styrofoam cooler and provisions. On to Grand Canyon Village with a stop outside the park for more substantial provisions. Don’t forget your yearly NPS pass if you have it!

Covid regs very prevalent as all museums and visitor centers closed, limited bus service and seats, mandatory masking, and reduced capacity in the restaurants that are open. BUT still packed. Lots of lodging options.....Historic El Tovar is the place of choice, designed in the 1904 by famed Mary Coltar, it has the divine feel of the parkatecture meant to be in keeping with the environment, but also more “luxurious” and cozy than the X Stanley Underwood historic lodges in many of the of parks. El Tovar def considers itself luxury and the prices reflect that both in lodging and in the delicious, highly desired dining room where tuxedoed wait staff show off their desserts as you enter and offer main courses $35 and up.  The main theme is to highlight the Native American culture (Navajo, Hopi, etc.) through artwork, rugs, aesthetics, carvings and on the hotel china. Rooms are modernized and very comfortable with spacious and updated bathrooms.

If you don’t want to afford the EL Tovar, check out the equally historic, but perhaps less lux accommodations at the Bright Angel Lodge just down the way, also built in 1935 in the same log cabin feel. This also has individual cabins that look quite quaint and several dining options and bar. Aside from these, there are several other hotels right in the village with great views and up the way by the Visitor Center area.

 A quick jaunt on the Rim Trail to get acclimated to Canyon Village and breathless views esp at sunset before having a relaxing dinner in the EL Tovar dining room which is a must whether staying there or not. Open breakfast, lunch and diner, reservations are essential though walk-ins are welcomed (the line had already started at 5pm!) It is the best room in the hotel....large, yet cozy with large stone fireplaces at either end flanked by large window views of the Canyon.  Very sumptuous in its own way.

Friday, April 23 - Rim to Rim Hike, Grand Canyon

East Coast time works to your advantage as the earlier the better in getting on the trails. The Kaibab trail is considered the most picturesque and we can vouch for that. We had our styrofoam cooler breakfast at 6am, caught the hikers shuttle at 6:30 and got on the trail at 6:50 though the sun had long been up since 5am. You can pick your turnaround point at various miles. We had thought to turnaround at the 4 mile point of Tip Off, but the Colorado RIver was just (seemingly) close and lured us as if sirens beckoning us on. And so we did. After all it was only 2 more miles and all those other seemingly unlikely people were doing it. In fact they were going Rim-to-Rim. Why not? We had plenty of provisions after all and it wasn’t too hot.

The Colorado River was in fact gorgeous. the color of grass and so inviting, we made it to Black Bridge, the lunch-stopping point for rafters and the home to the famed Phantom Ranch and campgrounds. BTW, reservations to Ghost Ranch is by lottery and a year out.  Good luck. And so, against all better judgement, we recklessly decide to go the Rim-to-Rim following the RIver Trail since Silver Bridge was closed and hooking up with the Bright Angel Trail which meant another 10 miles after having done 7. The theory was that it was different and not as steep as the return on Kaibab, but would be 3 more miles. Hm....lesser of two evils?? The River Trail was gorgeous, but as for the Bright Angel.....well, its a grueling slog. We are milking our R to R feat, but our feet (and knees) are still recovering. In hindsight, we shoulda stuck with the original plan which was down to Tip Off and then back (still uber strenuous) but then rent bikes and bike the Rim Trail which for non-canyon hiking sorts is perfectly gorgeous and can be 26 miles or 100 yards, whatever you want, and all flat!

Recovery consisted of ice cream, bath soak, laid out on the bed, and a martini with dinner back in El Tovar dining room.

TIPS: Def do the Kaibab Trail over the Bright Angel Trail...way better scenery and more dramatic Don’t go in the summer months period; Early May would be the latest I would go It’s coldest on the rim where it at 6000’. Every 1000’ descent, add 5 degrees Do lots of the overlooks on the rim scenic drive; all a bit different Layers and more layers Electrolytes The Grandview Trail looked like a great option as well.

 Saturday, April 24 - On to Lake Powell, Under Canvas

An early, but comparatively relaxed morning. Though breakfast starts at 7am, there was already a 45 minute wait at 7:15, which may be more likely cause of Covid restrictions, but worth the wait with a divine breakfast that we deserved having eaten in rationed portions throughout the previous day’s death march.

Off by way of the Canyon Rim drive to numerous overlooks....check out Mather Point at the Visitor Center for a great view of all your previous hiking (bike rentals here too); then Hance Point for great river views and on to Lipton and Grand View.

Onward waving good bye to the GC our next set of stops including the Glen Canyon for the Navajo Historical Bridge which is just an awesome view over the multi shades of the deliciously green Colorado  River and numerous rafts having just started their jaunt into the Grand Canyon from Lee’s Ferry which is the put in point and considered the start of the Grand Canyon. Back to do the Cathedral Wash hike, this seems an easy and unique 3 mile round trip walk through a gully canyon that can be a death trap during summer storms from flash floods.  Beautiful, it is unique, but not easy and it involves lots of rock climbing, some butt walking, all fours at times, and some bread crumbs would be good too as the trail, inevitably always changing, is not well marked other than by some well meaning folks placing rock stacks/cairns.  The prize though at the end is the Colorado riverside and a delightful foot dip is invigorating in its icy temps.

Highway 89 to Page where the famed Antelope Canyon Slots are closed after 11 people perished in a storm induced flash flood. (Another option to see this is by guided Kayak tours from page which we didn’t pay much attention since we planned to see it buy rented motorboat. Unfortunate decision.) A stop by Horseshoe Bend is a good bathroom break and leg stretcher for a beautiful view of the Colorado. BTW, Page, clearly a jumping off point for Lake Powell, is seemingly very skippable. On to Under Cover Lake Powell glamping “resort.”  A nifty spread of 50 “permanent” tents and the main tent with lots of outdoor seating, fire pits, and food truck type kitchen for breakfast, lunch and dinner. An engineering marvel, each tent is set up with all the modern conveniences. More of a Radisson than a Ritz in the world of glamping, you want for nothing other than decent weather and maybe a pair of earplugs for that tent down the way on their 3rd bottle of wine. Each tent is outfitted with full working toilet, wood burning stove, sink with potable water, hot shower (hand held) delightful bed linens and full USB mighty battery packs for lighting, and any personal charging needs.  A porch and porch furniture, inside leather chairs, and a king bed made for very attractive and comfy digs right down to the wicker tissue holder.

Winds were really blowing so we ate inside the main tent where there was live music and very fresh and creative food cooked on demand. A fun experience that may not be for all, but certainly unique and well done. Would be great with kids, though not small children IMO.

Sunday, April 25 - on to Zion National Park

Our MO of Lake Powell was to see it by boat. Alas, the weather did not cooperate. So what to do? A drive by. So back to Wahweap Marina where the house boats that are 3 stories high and sleep up to 20 are docked like dominoes. Something to behold. The lake is HUGE with majestic and classic red rock formations all around. We scooted over to Lone Rock Beach to see....Lone Rock....a huge rock in the middle of this part of the lake and a big “sandy” beach with tons of people camping, etc. Then onto check out the Amangiri Hotel, tucked away in the desert mountains...but alas...the intercom person at the gated subtle entrance said “we are fully booked and are not giving tours at this time.” Eye-roll. At $4000 a night, ok whatever. We skipped the suggested Wire Canyon slots in Buckskin Gulch and headed for Zion.

Beautiful day and clearly everyone else thought so too. Zion is not for Zion, but for Zoo! Our main goal is to hike the Narrows and when we see the weather for Monday looking rainy and cold, we hustle it up to get going today since its warm and sunny.

Zion is a large park, but very cut up, so the mainly visited section is actually very small. To cut down on traffic, the park closed the lone in and out road to cars except those staying at Zion Lodge, who get a special parking pass and code for the gate. If not at the Lodge, PLAN this well ahead to get your shuttle ticket, reserve your dry gear for the Narrows, food, etc. Otherwise you are dooking it out with the masses. Springdale borders the park and is a  touristy but very attractive town with plenty of places to stay and loads of restaurants.  There aren’t that many hikes, so you really don’t need more than 2 days here unless you want to horseback ride. They tout biking, but it is really mostly as a way to get about in the park. Rentals abound and I would get an e-bike if you need it. But just if you can’t navigate the shuttle, cause the road is not really suited to biking.

So we hurried to Zion Adventures to figure out the Narrows. Supposedly 6 hrs round trip, we decided just to do as much as we could. It can be 1.5 miles or 13 miles.  But MOST important is a good hiking stick, then the water shoes and socks. Additionally, we were geared up in springtime recommended dry pants and very happy with that as well. And we are off. Shuttle to Sinawava, the last stop, walk the riverside trail and get in the Virgin River.  We started at 2:30 and were like Salmon swimming upstream. The masses, hoards and throngs of people were amazing. A river of people in everything from Tevas and shorts with logs as walking poles to one woman with a 6 month old in her arms which is crazy as the walking is quite tricky picking your way thorough and around the rocks, quick current, and various water levels, typically to your calves, but to my waist in some sections. Fortunately most people were returning and we could avoid them. At its widest, the river is maybe 25 yards wide and at the point where we turned around about 2 miles upstream in the Wall Street area, its perhaps 5-8 yards wide. And beautiful. There is a reason it is so popular. Smooth canyon walls and cliffs straight up with varying colors of red, black, gray, and white plus the green vegetation, not often seen in the other desert areas.  Totally unique and worth the effort. I would have been very bummed not to do it. Oh, and it took 3.5 hours, not 6 for a total of about 6 miles from the shuttle drop off.

Feeling very satisfied with ourselves, we had to have the equipment back by 8pm, so decided on dinner in Springdale at Oscar’s was recommended by the young staff at Zion Adventures. Excellent. Super casual indoors and outdoor seating with excellent Mexican and creative burgers. Outstanding. Note: Utah ain’t big on drinking, but know its big revenue, so they allow it with lots of regs: must have food with the drink, lots of places beer and wine only. Another note: my buddy Kirsten is a native Ute and Mormon who said that Mexican is the way to go in Utah and the Utah burger which is a burger with pastrami and gruyere cheese plus “Fry Sauce” -  1000 island/aioli type concoction of mayo, ketchup, pickle juice and salt. It’s quite tasty, but will opt for Mexican over the Utah burger....

 Monday, April 26 - Zion National Park

Not sure if its the weather or that its Monday, but the crowds have slightly dissipated. Nevertheless, our hike to the famed Angel’s Landing was also packed. This is quite the hike. Straight up and on the cliff and ridges. Not for the faint of heart or fear of heights. I bailed about halfway through. Then on to do all the 3 Emerald Pools, which are a great set of trails throughout the rugged terrain with great views, though once again, it felt like Mt. Everest with stop and go hiking at times. A store owner said that Zion had more visitors last year than Yellowstone though minute in size compared to Yellowstone and is busy 9 months out of the year. Something to think about.  Go in very off months IMO.

Then the rains and wind came and with the chilly temps, we packed it in to Whiptail for another delish meal not unlike Oscar’s. We toured some shops, art galleries, and checked out the visitor center which is open because of course its open air...funny that the Park museums and centers such are closed but the shops are open......and then took it in to give our calves and thighs a break.

Had to eat in the dining room, which given Covid and maybe (Utah) and the weather, was not ideal. Disappointing dining room in general with a cafeteria type buffet line, though closed, that made the atmosphere pretty utilitarian. Add ordering everything at the host staton and it delivered to your table. There was a full bar, so that was a bonus. And if we could have easten on the great deck, it would have been significantly better.  Back in the room by 8pm....

 Tuesday, April 27 - on to Bryce Canyon Nat Park

Cold and overcast, we blew out for Bryce by 7:30. Bryce Canyon National Park is a much higher altitude at 9100 ft and thus the rain of Zion was snow at Bryce.  Beautiful drive through the Red Canyon in the Dixie National Forest which was gorgeous. Snow everywhere and the red cliffs and hoodoo formations of Bryce were simply magical with a dusting of snow.

The Lodge at Bryce Canyon was much more what we hoped for in terms of parkatecture expectations. Not grand, but cozy log cabin style with good common spaces around the large fireplace, comfortable dining room with several fireplaces and overall homey and welcoming. The historic cabins looked desirable, but alas are not heated and don’t open til summer. Which was good since more snow arrived late afternoon and night.

We took off immediately for the Figure 8 trail which combines the Navajo, Peekaboo and Queen’s Garden Trails for about 7 miles.  Fantastical scenery of the hoo doo formations with the trail carved into the side of the cliffs and through the canyon bottom.  Lots of fun and challenging.  Afterwards, the scenic drive is a good way to rest legs and see remarkable scenery along the 18 mile way. A quick mile loop at the end for views (and the 1800 year old Bristlecone Pine tree.)

And the snow came again. Gorgeous wet, granular (called Grapple) flakes accumulated quickly and was beyond beautiful. A break in the clouds gave way for a blue sky sunset, but the snow showers returned covering the firs and junipers.

Dinner was much the same as Zion Lodge, only more utilitarian, but at least a more inviting setting. Order with the host, pay and they give it to you not on Poland but literally in complete take out paper bags. You can at least sit at the tables after sanitizing and if discreet, the staff looks the other way with regard to the no alcohol in the building. Makers and water in our water bottle worked just fine with the elk chili.

 Wednesday, April 28 - Capital Reef Nat Park to Moab

Once again, a “take-in” breakfast at the Lodge and then on the road to Capital Reef National Park. The big question: is Scenic Highway 12 ok to drive after the snow?  The pass at Boulder is almost 10000 ft and can be tricky. With temps predicted to be 60 by afternoon, we decided yes. And well worth it. Ducking through the Dixie NF and the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, which BTW is not a monument per se, but 1.9 million miles of area that refers to the stairstepped terrain from the seismic shift 60 million years from the Colorado Plateau down to and help setting the stage for the development of the Grand Canyon.

Anywho, arrived CRNP to low fanfare. A mid-major park, it is unique in its own right of white sandstone domes like Capital buildings and reef by the seafaring pioneers who were finding the travel difficult to navigate like reefs. Those determined Mormons MUCH later than the Paiute and Fremont natives) who did make a success here as the canyon bottom is quite fertile from the Fremont River. WIth limited time, we headed for the two starred hikes - 3.5 mile 1200 elevation Cassidy’s Arch Trail. A+. Get your knees limbered and Mountain Goat Shoes on as you climb the rocks - challenging and gorgeous but not scary and great rewards at the end for Cassidy’s Arch (so named since the area was a fav haunt for Butch and the Wild Bunch.) Then the 12 mile very rustic scenic drive to the Canyon Groge in and out. The last section is dirt road and is the Narrows for carsa Dan is more entertaining than the dry canyon narrows walk, which is still good. And that’s it folks for CRNP. Check. Off for another 3 hr drive to Moab.

So Moab....well described in the guide book - a cross between Aspen and Gatlinburg. The main drag is just that....Main Street is 4 lane and constantly busy and loud with major 18 wheelers heading right through town. We were very uneducated about Moab and it was much different from what we expected as were the parks there too. Much revolves around motorized sports - 4x4 wheeling, motocross, airplanes, etc. We missed that whole aspect.  Places renting every kind of vehicle with it without guides, then  all the mechanical shops to fix it right on Main Street.  It has exploded with 7 new hotels having gone up in the past 2 years, but it is a real mishmash of tourists stuff. It clearly developed as a means to an end and gentrification and sophisticated take a back seat.....so far. And that’s true with restaurants too. Plan ahead and get a rezzie at the Desert Bistro. 

Checked into the Hilton Curio Collection Hoo Doo Hotel which is new and quite nice. ANd quite nice after 7 days to be in some commercialism. Get Hoo Doo has a great heated pool area, with excellent restaurant Josie Wells with a big outdoor space and also opens up into the pool.  Quiet, spa and right in town which is just what we wanted vs the much pricier and out from town Sorrel Lodge.  We walked to dinner at Antica Forma Italian restaurant, which left ALOT to be desired in terms of atmosphere - loud, a sort of independentyl owned Olive Garden type, BUT  the food was quite good - thin crust pizza and light, homemade tomato sauce in the lasagna. 

 Thursday, April 29 - Canyonlands National Park

A more relaxed, sunny and beautiful day going to 80 degrees with a sit down breakfast with Canyonlands National Park as the day’s destination. About 30 miles outside Moab, Canyonlands is all about the 4x4 and seeing the park is almost next to impossible without it. Not having planned for this, we decided to enjoy only the more popular section of Islands in the Sky. It’s almost 2 hrs to get to The Needles section or a different 1.5 hrs to get to the XXX section and The Maze is basically  only reachable by 4x4 or long hikes. So, we did the ubiquitous scenic drive, hiked several 2-3 mile hikes (XXX) and called it a day to go back and explore Moab, the pool, and get needed lunch provisions.  Great decision.  BUT if we had researched more or had more time or probably just now that we know, we would allow more time and plan for some of the other activities because it is beautiful and amazing.  Maybe more than the Grand Canyon, which while awesome, is just one canyon and this is HUGE, vast millions of canyons in every direction being carved by both the Green and Colorado rivers.  We were dumbstruck. Once again, the hikes were sorta crowded so ice there is not so much that can be done in one day for the average tourist like us.

Dinner at Josie Wyatt restaurant at the hotel which was quite good.

 Friday, April 30 - Arches National Park

We had seen the long lines of cars to get in Arches en route to Canyonlands, so we were up and atta’em at the gate by 8:30 still to a mass of cars filing in. Perhaps the horse heading back to the barn, or 9 straight days of hiking or the heat or the loads of people, but we were somewhat underwhelmed by Arches.  Still a wonder to see, this is the park for families. Like many of the other Utah parks, there is endless rock climbing hikes, but here there lots of short hikes just off the road easy for all.  And they were there.  Packed and wither ranger directed parking or circling lots hoping for someone to leave.  Ugh. We saw the most impressive arches and they were fun, had our picnic and pointed our car north to Salt Lake City where we stayed in town at the Kimpton Monaco Hotel. We scouted out the nest eats and landed at HSL about 10 blocks away and scored major.  Creative and outstanding followed by a night walk around the city where the Temple is something to see for sure.

 Saturday, May 1 - Salt Lake City departure

Flying the friendly skies, which BTW, the Salt Lake Airport is pretty great. Very close to town (stay in town unless your flight is seriously 0:dawn thirty) new, clean (like all Mormon stuff plus organized.) The Delta terminal is quite nice.

#usa #utah #arizona #nationalpark #national park

[aureliasaid]

Billings, Beartooth Pass, Yellowstone River, Big Sky

Montana - August 12-18, 2019

 Monday, August 12

Flights were perfect coming into Billings, the largest city in Montana. Unfortunately that was not the case on the ground when a massive hail storm the night before left no cars at any car rental place. Hm. Let’s think about our options over lunch at local brewery called Uberbrew as recommended from our local transplants sending advice from France. We rented a car from a local rental/used car dealer in town and headed to Red Lodge and our same local family’s vacation cottage on Hauser St. Got the last car at AA&A Car rental in town and set off to Red Lodge. TIp: if in a pinch, look at the app Turo, an Air BNB for cars type thing.

 Red Lodge - Cute little town with everything to do such as skiing in the winter, mtn biking, hiking, etc. Fav hike is the Glacier Lake hike. Our pals home is a super cute old clapboard historical home complete with pot belly stove with Broadway, the main drag of Red Lodge, an easy walk. Because of our travel woes, our time to do anything active was consumed, so it left little time for anything except to actually consume at shops, bars and restaurants. Darn. Here is the scoop from our fav local:

 Hey Aurelia!

Bear spray is a must if you go hiking. The Beartooth Market is down the street towards town if you need anything. There is also a nice little gourmet food and wine shop, Babcock and Miles, 105 12th Street West, that also makes good coffee, but not open until 9. That is also a fun place to pick up picnic items if you need lunch for a drive up the Pass. For breakfast, we like Regis Cafe at 501 South Word, open at 7 am. It’s nice to sit outside in the back if it’s good weather. The Cattail Bakery, 203 Broadway, is good for picking up baked goods. They are open early and close when they run out of croissants.

Mas Taco is a short walk from the house, on the other side of the main street, Broadway. It is great for a quick lunch or dinner, closes at 7 pm. Our other favorite is Prerogative Kitchen at 104 Broadway, fun atmosphere and serves small plates that you order at the counter. (Our choice and it was excellent!) There is a pop-up Sicilian restaurant at Ox Pasture (7 Broadway). The atmosphere is wonderful, and the staff is mostly Italian (they come for just the summer)...It’s good, but not fabulous. It is a fun experience, though. We think the Sicilian specials at the top of the menu are the best choices. You might need a reservation. Carbon County steakhouse on Broadway is good if you want a steak. They also own Natali’s Front Bar next door, good for a drink on the patio. (Yep, we did.) The Pollard Hotel is a historical landmark, Calamity Jane and such hung out there back in the day. I do not recommend the restaurant, but their pub is pretty decent and sometimes has live music. Best ice cream is Jubilee, close to Prerogative Kitchen and the Roman movie theater on Broadway.

If you want an interesting something to take back to your daughter, Paris Montana on Broadway has unique, funky “western” clothes and accessories. The owner designs and makes a lot of the items herself.

 Tuesday, August 13

The Beartooth Pass Drive is incredible. It takes about an hour to drive up to the Pass at 10,497 ft. You can make a loop out of it by coming back to Red Lodge (or Billings) as was the case for our hail storm dictated journey) through Wyoming on the Chief Joseph drive through the Sunlight Basin. All together this was about a 5 hr jaunt with minimal stops. Probably 4 if you go back to Red Lodge. We got picnic supplies at the Beartooth Market and left at 8am after breakfast at the Honey Cafe.

The Beartooth is fantastic with incredible 360 degree views of the jagged Beartooth Mtns, and the other ranges in the distance. Alpine lakes are everywhere at the top and you level out onto grassy plateaus. There are hikes along the way, lots of scenic pull offs, Beartooth Lake rec area and the Top of the World stop for snacks, gas and outhouse. Really gorgeous.

The terrain on the Chief Joseph scenic drive is not as dramatic as the Beartooth Highway, but full of vast valleys, grassy plains, igneous dikes and rocky plateaus. The highlight is the Clark Fork Yellowstone river and canyon that runs through most of the Basin.

Would have liked to have gone on to Cooke City, but we had return to Billings to return our local yocal car rental. Luckily, Enterprise had a car for us so off we went to Pray, Montana and the Sage Lodge in the Paradise Valley below the Paradise Range.

The Sage Lodge, which clearly is geared around fishing as it is a partnership of Sage fishing gear along with other fishing brands, sits high on a grassy plain and is quite nice with spa, gourmet restaurant, casual restaurant, hot tub area, mtn biking trails, and lots of fishing stuff. We hopped on two bikes and took a 5 mile ride around the property before having dinner in the grill.

 Wednesday, August 14

Fly fishing on the Yellowstone. A beautiful day starting in the 50’s and up to the low 80’s quickly. Craig Boyd was a spectacular guide with lots of fish tales while being a good instructor and oarsman. It was an A+ day as we snagged probably 30 fish. Mend, strip out and strip in, set that hook were all terms of the day on a 12 mile float from to Side ?? to Livingston. The Yellowstone River is a gorgeous, wide river, which interestingly flows north to the Missouri River, with some nice small rapids, but generally a swift current, but gentle feeling river going through the Paradise Valley.

After our float, we explored the area visiting the famed Chico Hot Springs Lodge, which is quaint and historic National Park feeling with the hot springs contained within a swimming pool setting. The bar has lots of character and the food is supposed to be James Beard material. We were glad to see it and glad to be staying at the Sage. Also drove over to the Yellowstone Valley Lodge which could be a good option for staying with cabins overlooking the river and a well known gourmet restaurant. (Book way in advance.) Ended our touring with a cold Rainer beer at The Saloon in Emmigrant, a “suburb” of Pray....Soaked in the scenery in the hot tub and a lovely dinner at the Fireside Room.

Thursday, August 15

It’s a car tour day as we cruised to Ennis, Montana which is a beautiful drive through the Madison Valley and beside a gorgeous Madison River, which is very similar to the Yellowstone. Ennis is a cute little town with typical Main Street full of fly fishing shops and s smattering of restaurants. With some time to kill, we decided to drop in on some friends and their Ruby RIver Ranch near Alder, Mt. A lovely compound of log cabins and main lodge right on the Ruby River which is a large creek known for its fishing and tubing. A bonus is going through Virginia City and Nevada City, which are historic gold mining towns that are still so authentic western looking that I thought I might be on a movie set.

We headed back to Moonlight via the private shortcut on Jack Creek Road and landed just in time for dinner at the Moonlight Golf Club.

 Friday, August 16

Enjoyed a few days at Moonlight & Moonlight Music Fest! 

 Other good areas:

Boulder River Valley and Big Timber area are great for fly fishing. (Red Lodge to Timber is 1.5 hrs) Paradise Valley near Livingston is good as well. (Red Lodge to Livingston is 2 hrs and another hour from Livingston to Pray.)

#montana #usa

[aureliasaid]

Oui, Bicyclette

France & Burgundy: Tennis, biking and wine - June, 2018

Friday, June 1, 2018

All systems pret, landing CDG a huit heures and then...traffic. Would a train have been faster into the city? J'en sais pas, but alors, the Bordens and Monks arrived at the Hotel d'Aubusson on Rue Dauphine (near St. Germain de Pres) in the Left Bank 6th Ard. to the Parisian natives Pecheleses and Whichards on their way (minus Brian) to Roland Garros. A quick clean up in borrowed rooms and then subwaying from Odeon stop to Autiellier (?) and walked with the throngs to Roland Garros. A french version of Forest Hills (and efficiency to match the time period of Forest Hills,) we finally arrived inside where #2 seed 21 year old German Alexander Zverev beat Damir Dzumhur of Bosnia on main Philippe Chatrier Court in a 5 set thriller. Also saw Caroline Wozniacki smush Frenchwoman Pauline Parmentier 0,3. Fun to walk in the smaller courts and see Americans Steve Johnson and Jack Sock win in doubles up close and personal. Prefect day for tennis that was overcast and cool, but little rain. Big thrill when we passed Venus and Serena being ushered into the locker room right past us after they won their doubles match. Serena sporting her cat suit look.

More traffic to get to the Gare d'Lyon for the high speed train to Dijon. (French blow out #1: informed not so nicely by a French passenger that people do not talk on French trains. Zut Alors...) Standing strong overall though with occasional sinking spells, (the long days helped since it doesn't get dark until at least 10pm,) we walked from the Dijon train station to the Grande Hotel de Dijon to meet Butterfield and Robinson in the morning. A note from Damien and little mustards prezzies greeted us with out B&R stash bags for the van. A light supper and Jordy gave a lesson in martinis that did not include pear vodka. A 10 of a day.

Saturday, June 2, 2018 - Day 1 - 35 miles

First up...34 miles through the Burgundy countryside. A taxi took us to meet our guide Damien at a hotel in Nuits St. Georges and with our nifty bike packs and personal GPS tablets, we are off through the Cote D'or region on the Route de Grand Cru. Crystal blue skies and vineyards everywhere. After our warm-up, we head to the B&R "Secret Spot" at Moulin XXX (Gristmill) for a country home by a stream where Mapie and Franck await with a GORGEOUS "picnic" of pate, chicken, green beans, salad and the addictive and omnipresent dijon vinaigrette, little pizza pieces and a fab fresh cherry /custard type tart and our first intro to Burgundian wines starting with 2014 village level Clos du Chateau de Puligny - Montrachet followed by a 2015 Maranges 1er Cru.

Onward to complete the ride which was NOT for sissies and included a "massive hill" (Damian's words 2+k up hill) before coasting to the incredible Abbaye de Bussiere, a former Abby that the former owners of Amberly Castle hotel in England bought from the Catholic Church and have made it outstanding with fab grounds and room and Michelin restaurant.

Our first "event" by B&R was that evening with wine expert Jean-Pierre Renard who gave us history (think Jurassic, monks - no relation - limestone, climate) and explanation of the four levels of the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes which are Bourgogne, Village, 1er Cru, Grand Cru. On to dinner, which was actually meant to be the final night's meal, but Damian revealed that we are doing the trip in reverse. That explains a few things. So tired, we skip the pomp and circumstance of all courses and go to bed, but topped off with a Grand Cru Pinot Noir. Don't ask me from where it came. A 10 of a day.

Sunday, June 3, 2018 - Day 2 - 40 miles

Another beauty of a day plus a fab breakfast spread and we started down the canals making our way eventually to the hill town of Chateauneuf-en-Auxios. The canals are peaceful and a nice ride through countryside and delightful and quiet tiny Burgundy villages. Roses are everywhere and breathtaking. We left the vineyards on the other side of the mountains and were surrounded by wheat, peas, wildflowers and cows. And then the vertical climb up to Chateauneuf...dang. But well rewarded with a casual lunch of crepes, ratatouille, and ice cream...oh and beers, at L'Oree du Bois, a small cafe with delightful terrace by the church.

Brian, Mills and Suzanne head back for a tour of the Abby grounds and the rest of us coulda, shoulda but chose to flex our egos and continue on for a total of 41 miles. Hills and hell as we surpass our enthusiast level IMO. But allors, a good reminder for the next time the ego devil sits on my shoulder. Regardless, a 10 of a day.

Drinks outside while Clive, the owner, held court which was very interesting before heading inside to the more casual restaurant. The same cherry tart was totally boring and could not touch Mapie's. A Chablis among others for the night and wait for it...a 10 of a day.

#mashedpotatoes

Monday, June 4, 2018 - Day 3 - 24 miles

Overnight storms thankfully cleared and the overcast skies were a welcome temp, though eventually giving way to sun, also good. We packed up and a taxi took us to meet Damian at Bligny-sur-Ouche ultimately to Montrachet. Back over the hills to the land of vineyards with yet another significant hill, but we are expert “enthusiasts” now, so piece of cake...right? But a wonderful view from the cliffs into the village and vineyards below before heading on to Mapie and Franck to meet us with lunch at the L'abbaye de Morgeot, and the vineyard belonging to a Marquis/Duke of Magenta called Domaine du Duc de Magena. His widow is Scottish and her sister and cousin met us along with the Domaine Director of Operations for a lesson in winemaking before lunch (while the Duchess tended the tourists for the season up at their private Chateau de Sully about 30 minutes away.) We tried their Bourgogne, 1er cru and sparking wine cremant. And of course got our B&R biking shirts. Lunch was outstanding again with ham, roast beef, beets and feta, cous cous, salad, pate, tomato stuffed with guacamole, potato salad, plus molten chocolate cakes and orange slices. If only....

A quick 6K into town to our new hotel L'Hotel Montrachet. A much welcomed day of 24 miles total. We met Jane Eyre (yes that is her name and later revealed the Australian hairdresser turned winemaker and ex-daughter-in-law to Jean Pierre - how about them grapes?? - a small world in those vineyards.) She explained much more easily for our American ears about the wines in an experiential outdoor "classroom" among the Chardonnay vineyards with wines from Meursault-Perrieres 1er Cru and others of the area.

Dinner (DOYO) was a drive to Pommard for a fine meal of ravioli en boullion, beef cheeks and frothy cheese dessert at Aupres du Clocher. And 1er and Grand Cru red and white of the area. It was....a ten of a day esp as the storms once again held off before settling in.

#mexicanfrenchaccent

Tuesday, June 5th, 2018 - Day 4 - 24 miles

And the rains cleared off and we were treated to an unexpected dry day. YAY. We started pedaling later (another YAY) and headed for a relatively easy (triple YAY) 25 miles or so ride through the villages and countryside, back on the Route de Grand Cru of the Cote d'Beune. Lunch was a welcome sight in the charming village of Meursault at Le Bouchon restaurant. Cokes, beers, frites, and salads were lingered over and then a short ride back to Montrachet to chill and watch the French Open as our buddy Zverev got crushed, but Americans Madison Keys and Sloane Stephens advanced to the semis.

Drinks at 6:30 in the pretty hotel courtyard (another YAY for vodka and gin) and dinner at 7 in a private room. Wow. This was a treat. The private room overlooked the courtyard with a large open window and the opposite was a window into the sparkling clean kitchen. Apparently a Michelin starred restaurant that had recently lost its star, no one understands why, and we certainly couldn't tell as the meal was gorgeous new french cuisine and sophisticated. But the best was Brian in his element. The day was a....dix plus.

#Cocalight #COCKtails #dambubu

Wednesday, June 6th, 2018 - Day 5 - 26 real miles, 15 e-bike miles

Off to Beune as we had a lovely and FLAT ride through the vineyards, once again in pretty weather and back on the Route de Grand Cru in the Cote de Beune area. We arrived at the L'Hotel de Beaune right off the main square, Place Carnot, and settled in on the terrace of the Hotel's pizzeria which rivals any Italian pizza. We will have one of each kind thank you. The hotel has a pretty little courtyard, but the lobby is small and not very attractive, which was very deceiving since the hotel had lovely rooms, a huge and very modern bathroom and beautiful Italian sheets made up as we would want! The Pecheleses and Bordens were just down a bit in another building for just rooms 8 & 9. There was clearly some Jill love going on as the Pecheles room was a pure palace.

Then, time for e-bikes as Damian arranged for us all to have a short ride on e-bikes since B&R Euro HQ is in Beune. Fun to see the behind the scenes a bit of B&R, but more fun to take off on e-bikes for 15 miles culminating in XXX with a very vertical hill demonstrating the happiness of an e-bike in turbo! We navigated the Beune traffic back to B&R and returned to the hotel for some more French Open.

Before dinner, we met Kelly, our guide for the Musee de l'Hotel Dieu, Hospice de Beune tour. A common French sight over the centuries for Hospital of God to take in the poor sick for free. It is a beautiful collection of buildings (note the tiled roof) that was originally from the 15th century and worked through the early 1970's. All quite interesting and highly recommend.

Dinner was in the Hotel Bistro, which was not busy, but of course got our daily dose of French grumbling and being shushed. Dinner was beautiful of roast chicken and day 5 of mashed potatoes. Damien made this a farewell dinner of sorts with lovely gifts for everyone...french vodka and gin for the fellas and wine books for the gals. Very sweet.

#Marie #Frettelinens #beuneonyourown

Thursday, June 7, 2018 - Day 6 - 13 miles.....

Another pretty day and sadly our last day. ANOTHER fab breakfast spread and all set for a big ride and big hill....(another French verbal whipping for not stopping exactly at the stop light) and then halfway through the ride, the showers came down...hard. So after 13 miles, hiding out in a construction site and soaked, we hoisted the bikes up on top of the van and went to our scheduled lunch at Comte Senard and the Table d'Hotes or lunch with a tasting of their wines (Caveau de Degustation.) It was an interesting cold soup (not what we wanted at that point after spending hours in the bathroom drying socks and such under the hand dryer), but still delicious of fresh orange juice, avocado and chives followed by vegetable pizza rustica and large salade verte. Lighting and thunder and unsettled skies thwarted the additional ride and we vanned back to Beune to take a look around. Of course, beautiful weather there, which works for shopping.

The usual French Open during rest period and we joined Damien in the lobby to give him his well deserved tip and small gifts for his children, Maggie and Tim. We walked out of the Old City to grab a drink at a bar near to Marchand-Tawes, a local Domaine. A new venture for this Domaine to make better use of the in-town building, it had a new and immaculate cellar and lovely retail and private dining area. Mark, the British winemaker (and former B&R guide) joined us for dinner and talked and talked about their wines. The meal was spectacular (scallops, tomato confit and arugula salad, duck breast with a blueberry reduction and mashed potato and duck touring. Lots of crement, village, 1er Cru and even a Grand Cru, but they were total rookies at sales and we left quickly for a more relaxed night cap on the Place Carnot.

#touslesjoursavecDamiencestun10/10dix #yellowshoes #butttexts #awkward #5forpriceof6

Friday, June 8, 2018

Breakfast was savored of course (can't miss a pain au chocolat.) Famed and posted rail strikes cancelled our travel plans so we taxied 3 hrs back to Paris arriving right on time at Noon to the Hotel d'Abusson. Rooms not ready, so we headed down the street per Jean the concierge to Cafe de la Paris for a delightful lunch of Croque Monsieur, omelette, salads and of course frites, while the Whichards headed to their tour of The Louvre. A sunny day made for good walking to the St. Germain de Pres shopping areas (think LK Bennett, Cos and the likes.) Aftewards, a stroll to Notre Dame and back down by the Seine before meeting our Venetian motor boat for a tour of Paris en bateau. Beautiful day, from the Statue of Liberty to the end of the Tuileries Gardens, with the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, the Musee d'Orsay, the Louvre and everything in between to view topped off with some Moët Champagne. Hard to beat.

Drinks in the Jazz bar before heading just around the corner to Le Christine, a hip spot that is supposedly just about to get a Michelin star, but still undiscovered by the masses. Modern rustic small front room which was perfect for us with larger room in the back. Minimal menu with langoustines in lime, followed by fab light grilled gnocchi in broth. Dessert was meh, but looked pretty. A nightcap in the Jazz bar was the final salute (though a stroll along the lights of the Seine according to William is highly recommended...maybe even a night boat cruise next time.) 8 10s.

Saturday, June 9, 2018

Au revoir

#france

[aureliasaid]

Nashville x2

Nashville 2/15-18, 2018

Thursday, 2/15

Flew in and headed to Lowe's hotel, dropped our stuff and hopped over via Uber to Germantown to go to City House, which is right on the main Germantown drag of 4th Ave and Taylor along with the likes of the new hottie Henrietta Red, 5th and Taylor, Germantown Cafe, etc.  City house is in an old stand alone compilation of a house and small warehouse?  The smoker is going in the back and the concrete floors and high ceilings make for a casual, loud and buzzy atmosphere full of all sorts and types of people.  It is Italian with southern US infused overtones. From pizza in the wood fired ovens to pasta to mains, it is primarily small plates that combines unique ingredients and styles. Like many of the hot Nashville restaurants, this small plate with some creative and sometimes funky flavor combos is the new norm as we see food and restaurant trends changing as fast as the millennials and technology can influence them. 

Friday, 2/16

Hideous rainy and cold weather met us as we planned to spend the day exploring apt options.  We looked at The Aertsen and The Morris in Midtown, drove around SoBro, toured The Monroe in Germantown, The Iconic in The Gluch and 505 on Church St near Printer's Alley in downtown.  Tried to see The SoBro, but couldn't get an appointment. Location sorta crazy since it is near the Bridgestone Arena and apparently a pain with events. All good options except the Gulch which has little to offer for apt rental and is more condo rental. That would be the choice spot, but the 505 is incredible and great location for downtown. Very tempting. The Aertsen will prob win as it attaches with the Kimpton Hoel and several restaurants including the cool Caviar and Bananas cafe and coffee shop.

Met Relia for a famous lunch at Pegleg Porker BBQ in the SoBro area. Pulled pork along with sides, and ribs in a small warehouse dive setting.  Packed.  Dinner was at BarTaco in 12 South with Relia and friends Jules, Jane, Maggie, and Morgan.  Very fun. They went out.  We didn't.

Saturday, 2,17

Saturday another un-lovely weather day, so we headed to Green Hills Mall, lunch at our fav, Nordstrom's Cafe and then to Memorial Gymnasium to see Vandy upset the Florida Gators. A visit to Cole Dorm, Dance Marathon and then on to dinner at The Tavern in Midtown specifically to watch the Tar Heels play Louisville.  Great spot with lots of TVs and very good casual food, but no reservations unfortunately.

All in all, another fun time in Nashville.  No music this time, but that was not the MO.  Next time!

Tarboro does Nashville 4/20-22/18

Friday:

The Clarks have come to Nashville and it ain’t Nashville that neighbors Tarboro. First stop The Tavern for al fresco late lunch and then touring the city by 2011 Q7. Drinks at the Westin roof top featured a gorgeous sunset followed by dinner at the Bee and Butcher in East Nashville. Super casual, smallish warehouse feel with lots of small plates of varying and delicious foods. And then its time for Broadway which with warm weather, the Preds in town for Game 5 of the first round of the Stanley Cup (debated going, but glad we didn't since they lost,) and Friday night, it was packed.  Visited FGL first which was not so crowded...until you went to the rooftop which had millions up there. Moved on to do the usual of Robert's, Tootsie's before taking it back to home sweet midtown.

Saturday:

Beautiful day! Walked down to Demonbreun to buy some running shoes and finally got moving to get 4 bikes to see Nashville up close.  (Geared hybrid bikes might be preferable to the Aertson Townie bikes, but like the concept by the Aertson.) Rode through Vanderbilt, Centennial Park and onto the roads by Tennessee State to access the Greenway.  Little farther than expected, but finally got on track.  Beautiful ride coming from the southwest into the city. Cruised through Germantown, by Broadway debating Acme Feed and Seed before bailing and biking onto Pegleg Porker near the Gulch.  Home again late afternoon.  

Started the evening just up the road at The Patterson House speakeasy on Division St which was a cozy bar that is limited in seats so there was a wait to get seated.  Light snacks and great cocktails. This was a great recommendation esp after we fumbled the original plan of going to the 6pm Listening Room show which was sold out. Dinner in East Nashville again, just off Main Street and 5 points at The Treehouse.  Super casual again, we were in the main room, which is small, but has a series of treehouse type rooms in the backthink that may be more of a bar through??  Didn't realize it until after we left.  it is supposedly one of Nashville's best and it was creative and good - small plate style again, but a bit heavy handed on the salt IMO.

Backing up to The 5 Spot music venue, we ventured in and encountered a rough version of new punk I guess.  We left after 10 mins.  Decided to try the New Orleans Blues bar, which was not too crowded and 8 piece band.  Of all the gin joints in the world, the 4 people standing alone on the dance floor by the stage edge was Martha and Charlie McClendon with their niece Mary Stuart. While the band was not really what I expected as blues, we still had fun dancing to The Rolling Stones and Cake by the Ocean (who's real singer was down the road at Vanderbilt's Rites of Spring concert.)

Sunday:

Rain replaced the sunshine and so we toured Belle Meade and Warner Park by car.  Lunch was at Burger Up in 12 South where the proprietors have Tarboro roots! Timed perfectly for a 1:00 pm opening, we went to the Musician's Hall of Fame to see the traveling Rolling Stones exhibit.  We pretty much did it all before BNA beckoned.

#nashville #usa

[aureliasaid]

Palm Beach take 2

Palm Beach 1/18/18

Thursday, January 18, 2018

As it goes, snow arrives in NC along with temps in the teens.  Brian and Suzanne get out the day before in the middle of the storm on Wednesday as it ultimately accumulates up to 9" in the Triangle, but the 1 " in Greenville is enough to cancel the 7am flts from Greenville.  Insert eye roll.  So off we go to RDU and while the roads are a little dicey, it is not a big problem.  Miami and Uber 1.5 hrs for us with the Gibsons and Whichards arriving Palm Beach from RDU-CLT.  The Dealer Ship awaits us and while down coats and white jeans are the uniform for upper 40's, it still beats the teens further north. We absorb the loss of Katherine Peters and then toast her.  

Dinner is at the newly redone Seafood Bar and Grill at The Breakers.  Great casual, but sophisticated atmosphere with view right on the Atlantic.  Yummy and pricy. Let the games begin.

Friday, January 19

Friday and the sun is shining along with the temps in the 50s. But alas, a great day to tour north of PB in the Loblolly Development where Whichard pals, Carter and Phillip Franke winter from Baltimore.  Piled into the 15 passenger white van with Mark at the wheel and we are off about an hour north.  Fun to see Loblolly (very nice, but relaxed with great marina, club house, two courses, tennis, pickle, etc. in sum - PLUs) and then Jupiter Island Club (very swish), maybe less PLU. Hangry ruled so we skipped Stewart and lunched at the The Dive Bar restaurant in Jupiter where the Bloodys cured any hanger pains.

Back to hit Worth Ave and the Roberta Roller Rabbit sale in particular.  Dinner that night at Kitchen. In a small strip center, the al fresco dining is on the parking lot curb, but face the restaurant and you'll never know!  Food and our waitress from Russia made up for the asphalt ambiance.  Really yummy! More galley games post dinner.

Saturday

Saturday was warmer, but overcast, yet fine for meandering around the great West Palm Beach Saturday market. A long walk on the WPB waterway and ran right into friends from home, Freddie Gray and Amanda Nisbet with their friend Alexis Waller from WPB - drinks later.

That afternoon was reserved for lunch with the Frankes at Pizza Al Fresco and more time to peruse Worth Ave. Ran smack into Ida Valentine Farinholt and her Mom Peggy who have a place at the Ocean Club, Ocean Ridge/Delray.  Then back to cheer on the Heels as they beat Ga. Tech.  Donning our warm weather gear, we toured the "lake," as natives called the waterway, via dinghy, down to check out the Ribovich docks and the 200+++ foot yachts including Steve Jobs and Steve Wynn's 300+ boats.  That boat might be for sale soon........

Drinks on the boat was swinging with the PB gals and additional friend Hillary Dick.  Set the tone for the evening with dinner at Grato, an offshoot of Buccan, which is a boisterous, large Italian spot.  Fun mix of people of ages and super casual.  Food is good, but it is loud in case that's a prob. Still good for our purposes.  And then more games.  The David appeared.

Sunday

Sunday was warmest of all in the 60's, but rain threatened. A walk and a sigh as we hugged the Dealer Ship goodbye.

#florida #usa

[aureliasaid]

Bratwurst for Thanksgiving

Stockholm, Copenhagen and Berlin

November 16-25, 2017

Thanksgiving lunch atop Germany’s Reichstag where a delicious restaurant provided a special view and meal

Thursday, November 16

Arrived via SAS airlines into Stockholm with an hour + drive in since it was rush hour. Def would look into the train ride in from the airport next time. Stayed at the Nobis Hotel right in the heart of town, but very close to the main harbor area. It is a boutique hotel from an old bank where the Stockholm Syndrome originated after a bank robbery. Very hip nowadays with a delightful included breakfast.  Crying baby, actually screaming baby, all night en route over on the plane called for a nap and luckily the room was ready. Then for an afternoon oversight of the city, we opted for a guide since we were there only 2 days. Guides are nice cause they eliminate having to think, get you into the front of the line and in places you can't always see on your own. We liked ours, Eva Bromberg Sharp, [phone]. Highly recommend!

We covered much area starting with City Hall, the home of the Nobel Peace Prize Ceremony coming up in 3 weeks on Dec 10, Nobel's birthday. This was cool especially since seeing the ceremony recently when UNC prof Azziz won for chemistry in 2015. Then on through various sections including everyone's fav, Gamla Stan or the Old Town which is very charming as expected. Hot chocolate and a pastry and then a walk through the Cathedral (small by Euro standards) which was fantastic with everything made of wood, Sweden's main resource. See the St George slaying the dragon statue! On to Sodermalm, (home of the ‘Girl with the Dragon Tattoo” author Steig Larson btw,) for a view of the city and then on past numerous sections of the town to end at the Vasa Museum, which is built around a famous ship from the 1600s that sank on its maiden voyage after 20 minutes of setting sail. In the 1950′s, researchers finally found it in the harbor and took 2 years to raise it in its total preserved state complete with some of the dead passengers fairly well preserved. A great day with dinner at Hillenberg, which was hip, yet cozy.

Tip: There are two train stations, so make sure you have the right one.

Tip: Weather was def cold, high around 32 degrees, so be prepared. This is an off time to come, but meant we had sights to ourselves. It is also odd as it is starting to get dark by 3:30, so do outside things in the morning. We had two sunny days which apparently is not the norm for this time of year. Interestingly, the sun never gets high in the sky at this time of year...just sorta stays just above the rooftops all day.

Friday, November 17

A boat tour is in order. Perfect guided tour around the harbor, out into the Baltic and back into the lake for an hour.  Great way to see a lot as well. Afterwards, we cruised past the Parliament bldg, popped into the huge Royal Palace, but parked it at the Nobel Museum, which was small, easy and very interesting. (Good cafe here.) Headed over to the Fotografiska, photography museum, which has a cool top floor huge cafe with harbor views.

Legs and intellect zapped, we blew through some shops (Sweden home to H&M, who knew?) as well as Zara and their big Saks type store NK. Back for a spell (aka nap) before heading to Broms for dinner. Famous for their Swedish meatballs as I had read, but our tour guide also recommended as they are family friends of hers. It was great...more bistro in feel, but buzzy and fun too. Nightcap back in the hip Nobis bar.

TIp: In summer, boat tours may go to the archipelago, but in winter, get a commuter ferry and go.

There are a million ways to see this city with all kinds of creative tours such as the rooftop tour where you are clipped in walking along rooftops! Hop-on Hop-off bus tour is a great way to see the city.  The city is also very walkable, though it is not a small city.

Saturday, November 18 Copenhagen

We debated flying or training, but decided on training which was an excellent decision. 5 hours on the fast train, which probably would have been the same total time by plane. It was easy, on time, and nice to see the countryside.

Arrived Cope at 3:30 and met Relia at our hotel, Hotel Skt Petri in the Latin Quarter. (Saint Petri fyi). We headed straight for Tivoli, the 2nd oldest amusement park in the world that had just re-opened after being closed for 3 weeks to become a Christmas Wonderland with Christmas Market pop-up shops, full blooming hyacinths, white lights adorning everything, lighted trees at every trash can, mulled wine and special Christmas lagers and meals all with the roller coasters and sky drops in full action amidst the decor. It was packed to the hydraulics with merry-makers of all ages. We headed back, popping into Relia's flat first very near the Skt. Petri in the city center, before going to dinner at Bistro Boheme, a hopping French bistro.

Sunday, November 19

Let's just take a moment to talk about bikes...and more bikes and then more bikes. Never in my life. Incredible bike lanes, riding in all weather, all times of the day and night, with few helmets.  But what is most important for non-bikers is to STAY ON THE SIDEWALKS or else you are toast, esp for us American non-bikeminded people. It is serious transportation and they come flying from around the turn just as you are about to jaywalk into their lane.  Sweden similar, but Denmark gives China a run for its money at least in volume of bikes.

Awoke to hideous rainy, cold and windy weather along with Will coming in from the States - spent the morning getting him situated...aka a nap. Met Relia later and went to the Rosenberg Castle very close by in a pretty park, good because its small and most important, the Crown Jewels are on display here....which is worth the trip alone.  

Will bailed for another round of napping and we three headed to the famed old area of Nyhaven, went through the Christmas market there, marveling at the sausages over the firepit, pork inches thick being smoked and salmon being smoked. We blew through the formal D'Ingleterra Hotel, (happy to have saved our $$ not staying there) before crossing the Kissing Bridge to Christianshaven en route to Torvehallerne (or Papiroen or the Copenhagen Street Food Market Hall or Paper Island for non-Danespeak,) which is a huge old warehouse that houses picnic tables and some 30+ food vendors of all sorts.  The pulled duck and duck fries were amazing as were the hot dogs. Sadly, this location is closing in December as capitalism has taken over the warehouse key spot...its too popular not to re-open somewhere else though.

Still licking our chops, we went back to the hotel by way of Strøget, the long pedestrian shopping street.  Ready to be out of the elements, we chilled til going to Mikkeller and Friends, the flagship location (big description for a small, non-descript basement bar of two rooms in the meat packing district) but is all that in the craft beer world called "the most imaginative beer bar in the world." We tried several which were very different, but quite tasty. Then on further into the Meatpacking district for dinner at Kodbyaens Fiskebar, a stark and casual seafood spot back in the depths of the converted warehouses. Delicious. The non-filtered organic cloudy Gruner Veltliner was a surprise, but good. But hey, Will finally awake, so the night is young and over to The Bastard Cafe, a bar dedicated to playing board games, which apparently is a Danish pastime (wouldn't you with dark and cold prevalent? We passed several stores dedicated only to board games in fact.). Most were, of course, Danish games or in Danish, so we opted for Scrabble, which was actually an English version because there is a Danish version with those funky letters.

Monday, November 20

YAY, a beautiful sunny day, albeit still chilly, but sun glorious sun. Relia is in class so we take to the streets first climbing the Round Tower for great views of the city, then on to the Frederick church and across the grounds of Ameliaborg Palace, home to the current Royal Family. (Passed a Segway Tour, which would have been a fun way to see the city, though maybe a bit chilly.) From there, a walk to see The Little Mermaid statue which is said to be underrated, but its still nice to see and a pretty walk along the water. Over the bridge and through Nyhaven to the Gasoline Grill we go...for the "life-changing best hamburger ever..." from a gasoline station.  And it was true....organic meat hand ground daily and fries with choice of salts (vinegar, truffle, etc.)  Day 2 of delightfully junk food content and we perused Nyhaven while awaiting our canal boat tour. Another must.  Of course afterwards, it must be time for a snack so to the famous La Glacé bakery for hot chocolate and their famous cakes and macaroons.  A few pit stops in some Zara's and H&Ms as well.

The heart app showed 6.5 miles of walking and I agree.  DInner was at Geist, a hip and highly touted dining EXPERIENCE with creative and complex, sophisticated small plates in Nyhaven. It did not disappoint, but hurt the wallet for sure, so take note.

Tuesday, November 21

First stop, the Church of Our Savior with the spiraling spire.  400 narrow steps lead to far-reaching views maybe not for the faint-hearted height phobiacs. From sin absolve to sin den, we leave the EU and go into Christiania, the free world of hippies and home of top notch weed. Free living with no laws and it looks it - disorganized, clutter, dirty environs home to the ultimate hippies and their families. Vendors line the streets and photography (and running since that indicates a possible raid) is strictly prohibited. Since it was a Tuesday around 10:30am, the town was still waking up and setting up, and thus sorta eerily quiet. So alas, on to more junk food decadence (inevitably a well traveled path from this locale for those partakers) as we returned to Paper Island to indulge Will and meet hometown friend Bethany Garrison.

There is much to do in Copenhagen and museums of EVERYthing seem to be a Scandinavian requirement.  There were several key spots that we missed, but we were done and thus headed out to the Kronborg Castle in Helsingborg, about a 40 minute train ride (thank goodness for local knowledge of our gals.) This is worth a day trip as the town is quaint and the Castle is everything you ever imagined a castle to be, moat and all.  On a full day, we would have also taken in the Louisiana Modern Art museum, but the girls had been and the day was nigh. Besides, we had a date with dinner that deserves its own paragraph.

Amass, the new restaurant by the chef from the famed Norma (supposedly the best restaurant in the world?) on the outskirts of Cope. Very stark inside, you only order the 6 small plate courses or 9 course and you get what you get which was: perch, salmon, potato bread, and more, all done with complex, minute and subtle layers, multiple cooking styles, steps and processes. E.g. the potato bread was made from potatoes that had been fermented for 2 weeks. This was an incredible experience right down to the chef calling out a command in the open kitchen and the other chefs answering "Yes Chef" in unison. Do not go if you aren't a foodie or are a picky eater. Also, it will put a large dent in your budget.

Wednesday, November 22

Travel day from Cope to Berlin. Since Air Berlin had gone bankrupt the month before, direct flights from Cope to Berlin were still getting reorganized and not existent. So we had to connect through Stockholm.  In retrospect, I think I might have taken the train which would have taken the same 7 hours it took door to door to fly. It was kinda fun though to land back in Stockholm with a dusting of snow.

Arrived at the Grand Hyatt Berlin to find ourselves smack in the middle of it all right near all the major sights and basically at Potsdamer Platz. We loved the location and the hotel. It was 4pm by the time we got organized, so we went to the Jewish museum which is much more about the history of Judaism and Jewish life than it is the Holocaust, though that aspect is of course present. Dinner that night was at Katz Orange, a hip, yet shabby chic sort of place with a modern German/European fare.

Thursday, November 23

We met our guide Lars Jokubeit (who made the visit for us - he was excellent 49 179 524 7810 [email protected]) at 9:15am and did a walking tour of Nazi Berlin and the Cold War Berlin for 4 hours. He reminded us that we were incredibly lucky to have sunshine and temps in the 50s.  It was LUCKY, but still chilly...missed my scarf! We learned and covered so much that I can only list the things to do and see: Sony Pavilion, Potsdamer Platz, Holocaust Memorial, Checkpoint Charlie (study up before you go otherwise it is just a major tourist trap), current Finance Building which was the Chancellory for Hitler, the actual Wall remnant, Topography of Terror, Tiergarten, Russian Gov building with mural, Brandenburg Gate, current government buildings and mall, esp the Reichstag German Parliament bldg and the glass cupola, with a delightful (Thanksgiving) late lunch at the restaurant on top. Wow. SO MUCH TO SEE AND DO.

Lars recommended to get the real understanding and flavor of Berlin, a huge melting pot since the wall came down, was to visit the neighborhoods. He suggested a particular neighborhood around Oranienstraße to see all the immigrants there, the graffiti, of which they embrace and consider part of the cultural heritage and environment, followed by the Thursday night food hall of street food and live music at any number of places afterwards. And that is exactly what we did, starting at the new and hip Orania Hotel, walking Oranienstraße and then going to Markthalle Neun for a great follow up to Thanksgiving with foods from all over the world.  Very much like Paper Island and very fun. Bailed on the music scene though opting for a drink at the Orania Hotel.

Friday, November 24

While still not freezing, the day was very windy, dark and overcast with rain coming in the afternoon which set the tone for the trip with Lars to Sachsenhousen concentration camp 40 mins outside of Berlin. Not an intentional “death camp,” but a labor camp more for the unwanted non-Volks, political prisoners, etc. While most of the original structures do not remain, there is enough and excellent displays for the disgusting and heinous place that it was.

Back in Berlin, we decided to go to the Old Town area and take in a museum after lunch with Lars. Have lunch at das Meisterstück which is tucked away in otherwise fancy restaurants or museum cafes. So fun to have a casual, modern grill restaurant that is dedicated to German sausages cooked right there. Not expensive and fun with lots of craft beers. Will continued his search for the best currywurst. This might have been it.

The old town is more of the huge ornate Baroque type buildings for Gov offices, arts and the famed Museum Island. The Nuese Museum is supposedly the choice museum, but we opted for the German History museum, which is lots of wars and Hapsburgs and such. Do a fly through or you will never emerge. This long strata Unter den Linden leads from the museums at Schloßplatz to Brandenburg gate and is fun to walk, though the parallel street of Fredeickstrasse is also fun to walk reminding me of 5th or Madison Aves. And this is where our dinner was at Crackers, a very euro, hip place with great food. A DJ comes every weekend night, which must be a Euro/German thing and she stood at her pulpit and played, according to our 20 somethings, more 80s dance music as opposed to EDM of nowadays.  Ok.

Saturday, November 25

And so it goes.  Check.  A wonderful Thanksgiving indeed.

#sweden #denmark #copenhagen #germany #berlin #stockholm

[aureliasaid]

On the Trail with Frank

The Frank Lloyd Wright Trail - Wisconsin

Thursday, 10/19-22/17

Thursday, 10/19

Direct flight to Madison, Wisconsin from Charlotte was surprisingly on time and after grabbing the rental car, we took off for the first stop, the First Unitarian Society Meeting House in Madison right by the University of Wisconsin campus. It is an active church still built by FLW in honor of his Mother. Typical Wright traits with low (compression) ceilings before you enter into the major high ceiling assembly room with glass triangle pointed  window, triangular tables and chairs, and the signature open fireplace.  Check.

Onto see the Monona Terrace CIvic Center, which is hard to see/maneuver and so we blew on by to get to The Graduate hotel back over by UW campus and boy is it ever. Bordering Greek Row on Langdon St and the main drag of campus, State Street Mall, the Graduate is a refurbished 60’s building to their retro college theme which is fun and hopping with a indoor/outdoor rooftop bar, common area meant for students to hang out and study complete with coffee bar.  Our rooms were still not ready at 5:30?, heat that doesn’t work until a certain temp outside and students working there that makes it less than perfect. But they tried to make it up with free rounds at the bar, a discount on the room, and the shuttle ride to dinner.

Dinner was at L'Etoile, the James Beard award winning chef right at the Capital building which sits grandly atop a hill and was beautifully lighted in the night. The restaurant is quite lovely with serious food creations and prices to match. A fab view from the restaurants high ceiling full glass facade facing the capital. Situated right by its more casual sister restaurant Graze, which is also very highly rated, we opted for a calmer atmosphere to aid with hearing aids and such.

Friday, 11/20

An early morning walk around the Wisconsin campus was fab. Madison is flanked by 3 lakes, only adding to the beauty and energy of Madison and also one of the reasons why the Wisconsin rowing teams are serious and top ranked. Watching all the boats from 2 people to 10 people practicing on the calm waters and early morning sunrise was magical. The weather is unusually warm which makes everything we do even more enjoyable, esp watching the calm lake waters and hearing the coxswain shouting their commands.  The dorms are all Wisconsin stone and the huge campus still remains intimate on the slightly hilly terrain, but the real treat is at the top of the main hill called Bascom Hill which is the main quad and looks directly opposite of the Capital building down the State Street Mall.

A quick drive through campus for Mom to see and then onto University Dr and straight all the way to Spring Green, WI in the Wyoming Valley.  Once out of Madison, the road narrows to two lane and the surrounding countryside is gorgeous with the trees just beginning to change colors. Silos abound with lots of farms, though apparently not quite the dairy capital that it once was. Its an easy hour drive to Spring Green, which is also a State Park area with the Wisconsin River flowing through it.  We headed to the Taliesan Visitor’s Center, had lunch overlooking the Wisconsin River before heading to the Wyoming Valley Cultural Center, which was originally the school that he designed for the area and now is an area cultural education center and venue.  Then over to the Unity Chapel, which is still owned by the Lloyd Jones family and all his family and descendants are buried there.  In fact, he was buried there until his (3rd) wife moved his remains to Taliesan West with her.

Onto Taliesan which is wonderful. It is home in the summer to the FLW Architecture School so about 25 students live there.  We had a private tour for disabled patrons and that was quite special though not intended. They are very open with the house sine people still live and work there.  (It is good to read the book Loving Frank before going if possible.) The views are sweeping and it never ceases to amaze to think how he designed so modernly even in 1914.

Sadly departed to head to Milwaukee realizing we had missed a few Usonian spots in Madison, but oh well.  We have seen similar ones and mostly delighted with the Crown Jewels. The day had been amazing though aided significantly by an unusually warm and sunny stretch of weather in the 70’s…very uncommon for that part of the country at that time of the year.  The next week was going to be highs in the 40’s. The drive was about 2.5 hours and mostly interstate

Thanks to our friends, the Longs, we stayed at the Milwaukee Country Club in RIver Hills right beside the Milwaukee River.  Quiet and beautiful with trees all in the not quite peak stages of fall colors, it is a old and traditional  country club with strict rules and classic look and feel. The rooms were lovely and huge and it was stressless to walk downstairs to the clubby feeling grill room, where a coat and tie is not required.

Left around 10:30 to drive to Racine which is 45 minutes away.  Milwaukee def preferable to staying in Racine - and Frank Lloyd Wright agreed as he attempted to allow light but not sight into the SC Johnson Admin building so one didn’t have to look at Racine.  Its not that bad, certainly hassle free and right on Lake Michigan too, but still….The SC Johnson campus and buildings are beyond fab. They are amazing.  It is a combo of retro and Jetson’s and a really nice change-up from seeing houses.  So clever and one has to give as much cred to Herbert Johnson as to FLW for being willing both aesthetically and financially. After SC Johnson, we headed over to Wingspread, the home of H.F. (Herbert) Johnson.  It too is a wonder and fun to learn about and still in operation as a part of the Johnson Foundation and is a venue and conference Center.

Dinner was in Milwaukee proper on Lake Michigan at Harbor House Restaurant, a very fun and bustling seafood restaurant that looks right at the beautiful Milwaukee Art Museum designed by Santiago Calatrava. We weren’t going to have time to see this or much else of Milwaukee, but then again, that wasn’t our MO. Another time.

We flew out of Milwaukee Sunday direct to Charlotte.  Chicago is only 90 miles from Milwaukee and a popular option for lots, but flying into Madison and out of Milwaukee was the way to go for us. Great trip and highly recommend it. Check times as Taliesan closes for the winter.

#wisconsin #usa

[aureliasaid]

Rebel Red Carpet Vandy vs Ole Miss

October 13-15, 2017

Friday

Our bright-eyed and bushy-tailed 7am American Flight to Charlotte and onto to Memphis for an 10:30am arrival turned into bleary-eyed and draggin ass daymare when American canceled our flight and basically almost canceled our trip. But we endured a 4 hr drive to Charlotte, two failed stand-bys, inept and rude American Airlines employees to finally arrive in Memphis at 8:30pm central time.  Rental car and a dark road to Oxford landed us at our final destination around 9:45pm, almost 12 hours later than we were originally to have arrived. A martini was more than in order…in fact bring on a shot…or two.

Arrived at The Shanty, a cute shabby-modern chic house that our friends and hosts John and Pam Coffman arranged many months before. We went directly to The Square which was in FULL swing, with people in the streets and hanging from the outdoor balconies, police on bike and horseback, lines at every bar, cars cruisin the Square, and bands blaring inside. It was a sight to behold. Dawn Lassiter nailed it when she said it looks like a movie set and it does…as if it was one big fake facade with lots of hired extras. Surreal, mind blowing and fun…lots of fun.  And we had not even had a drink yet!

Met with other NC friends and their children, and headed in Boure and imbibed in their specialty Bedrock before claiming a spot on the balcony simply to watch. Popped in the Round Table (the jr and sr bar) where a friend’s son is a bartender. Got hot beers and ventured forth from the shabby dive front room to go into multiple rooms and levels with bands and outdoor space before heading to the even bigger multi-spaced spot called The Library.  Parents and students co-mingled as the HYDR attitude effused from every crevice.  Quite the homogenous Southern scene that made you think you knew everybody there somehow and if you tried hard enough, probably had 6 degrees of separation with each person. But 22 hours and the bar closing time sent us packing for 1015 S. 11th street.

Saturday

Saturday morning and a walk was in order.  Down University Ave and through campus, The Grove was already in tailgate order with every inch covered with a Rebel tent, perfectly aligned in symmetry and flush with the next one. Truly an amazing sight. The campus itself is beautiful with a mix of old buildings, magnolias and new structures blending in well. The fraternity and sorority houses are massive and seem to be quite nice with upwards of 300 members or more in each.

The town is so walkable and renting houses is a mainstay for accommodations, though there are some nice hotels if you can get a room. (One friend was staying with friends in a rented house, another was staying in the refurbished Greyhound bus station that rents out, others had bought condos when their children decided to be Rebels and still others had gotten a hotel room at the Hampton Inn for $500 pn!)

John arranged for a tuk to take us, sort of a golf cart type thing a la Bangkok, as walking in your finery and heels can be bad for your health.  Dropped at the edge of campus, the police don’t question contents as long as it is in a cup. We made our way in the maze to the Raleigh Rebels tent, a group of semi-converted Heels who’s money now goes with their children to Ole Miss. The entire thing is quite the setup - you engage a person who is your tailgate manager…at 6pm the day before a game, the Grove opens, and it transforms by way of the hired tailgate pros. They set it up, store your coolers and tables and guard it so no one moves it. Cold beers, Red Roosters and an array of food welcomed us despite our Gold and Black garb (which was very scarce in the sea of red and blue.)

This is Southern and actually Deep South at its finest. Women and co-eds were decked in various definitions of red, THE EVERPRESENT ROMPER and stacked heel boots and wedges. Even the now required clear handbag ruled was dolled to perfection. New frat pledges had on their required ties and blue blazers. Fortunately, our experienced hosts and friends anticipated the 90 degree 100% humidity even in October and had snagged Rebel Club seats, meaning AC, treats, and a stocked liquor locker for those with friends in high places.

The game was a surprising rout and we opted out early choosing a cold beverage and tour by tuk of a bit of Oxford, including Rowen Oaks, home of William Faulkner.  Bus Depot people watching was a pre-cursor to dinner at the Memphis-born Mesquite Chop House just off the Square with the Coffmans, Angel McKenzie and Barbara Dominick, both sans spouse this go round. It was perfect and home by 10pm. No studying at The Library tonight.

Sunday

We walked for our breakfast, but crowds and hour waits already formed at Big Bad Breakfast and Fillup at Billups, so we opted as maybe we should have from the get-go for homemade biscuits at the Chevron convenience store, famous for its food. Its cousin on the other side of the Square ain’t bad either with its famous (fried) chicken on a stick, which we partook of on Saturday. Alas, time to head back to Memphis, but it was a time and place to remember. American once again wreaked havoc on us with late planes and missed connections - something to remember…avoid American at all costs if possible. But one’s thing for sure, we liked putting our Anchor in Oxford especially as the Coffmans truly rolled out the Rebel Red Carpet for us!

[aureliasaid]

Parking it in the Parks - All My Sistas with Me

PACIFIC NORTHWEST, SEPTEMBER 2017

Quick downlow aka Itinerary: (skip and read afterwards for more detailed accounting)

Thursday, 9/7

Whidby Island, Puget Sound, WA - Mukilteo is the place to catch the ferry to Whidby Island, (no reservation needed) one of the main Puget Sound islands along with Bainbridge and Vashon.  BUT Mukilteo is also home to Boeing Aircraft HQ - take a tour.  

Arrived Clinton, Whidby Island, WA and drove 10 mins to the delightful little town of Langley and the Inn at Langley.  Dinner at Saltwater Cafe

Friday, 9/8 

Lake Crescent, Olympic National Park, WA - Hit the road for Coupeville to get the ferry (reservation required) from Fort Casey State Park to go to Port Townsend. Olympic National Park about 1.5 hrs away to Hurricane Ridge and over to Lake Crescent Lodge, which is a rustic, quaint, typical National Park Inn about 45 minutes away. Dinner at the Lodge.

Saturday, Sept 9 

Lake Quinault, Olympic National Forest, WA - The Sol Duc Falls is a fab hike 1 mile through the forest. On to the Hoh Rainforest on the southwest part of the park before parking it at Lake Quinault Lodge.  The 1 mile Hall of Mosses Loop at the visitor center is a must the Hoh Rainforest trail. It was about a 2 hr drive to Lake Quinault Lodge. Dinner at the Lodge.

Sunday, September 10  

Lake Quinault, Olympic National Forest, WA - Backtracked up Hwy 101 about 1.5 hours away to Second Beach. Nice little 1 mile trek to the beach. Cleaned up for an evening drive on the Lake Quinault Rainforest Loop. Dinner was at The Salmon House just down the road.  

Monday, September 11 

Paradise, Mt. Rainer National Park, WA - Spilt for Mt. Rainer National Park, 3.5 hours away. We arrived at the Paradise Inn (6000 feet) and Visitor’s Center and immediately took off for the Skyline Trail which is about a 5 mile loop up the base of Mt. Rainer. Dinner at the Lodge.

Tuesday, September 12  

Mt. Rainer National Park, WA - Alas, original plans were to head to Sunrise in the Northeast area of the park, but forest fires had closed much of the northern parts of the Park. So, we regrouped and went to the Stevens Canyon area. Dinner at the Lodge.                                                     

Wednesday, September 13

Mt Hood National Forest, Oregon - Set Waze for 3 hr drive to Mt. St. Helens and then after a 3 hr drive to Mt Hood National Forest and the Timberline Lodge. Dinner there in the famed Cascade Dining Room.

Thursday, September 14

Cannon Beach, OR - Uncontained wildfires all along the Columbia River Gorge had closed any access to the area, so off to Astoria before arriving at Cannon Beach. It was a 3.5 hr drive to Astoria from Mt Hood to Astoria. Next up: Cannon Beach which is a delightful gray shingled small beach town about 40 minutes from Astoria with the famed Haystack rock formation. The Ocean Lodge was just outside of town. Dinner at The Bistro.

Friday, September 15

Cannon Beach, Oregon - Oswald State Park to do the Falcon Trail as well as Ecole State Park. Dinner that night was at The Stephanie Inn.

Saturday, September 16  

Portland, Oregon - Toured the neighborhoods and had dinner at Q.

Want Dets and Pics?? Read more….

Thursday, 9/7 - Whidby Island, Puget Sound, WA

All flights went well though had to do a mild sprint through CLT when our PGV flt was late. Arrived SeaTac, got the Sienna minivan and headed out. First stop: Mukilteo, about 45 mins north of SeaTac. (Great view of Seattle since you go right through it on I-5, though no view of anything else as the forest fires haze and smoke blocked any vista that might be there.) 

Mukilteo is the place to catch the ferry to Whidby Island (no reservation needed), one of the main Puget Sound islands along with Bainbridge and Vashon.  BUT Mukilteo is also home to Boeing Aircraft HQ and a tour was in order.  This is a serious tour that is 90 minutes, involves buses, security, etc., and it is so cool to see the 787, 747 and 777’s being made, understand the history of aviation and the MASSIVE campus.  A must.

Afterwards, we hopped the minivan and went to the ferry which was delayed because of an ambulance on the incoming ferry, (interesting to see) and then boarded for the 20 minute ride. In the small world serendipity category, the car beside us, a commuter as most were, laughed at our antics and loud accents, which lead the next commuter to ask where in NC we were from and BAM…she was from Rutherfordton and was in Janie’s class!!!!!!  Cindy Crowder. Wild.

Arrived Clinton, Whidby Island and drove 10 mins to the delightful little town of Langley and the Inn at Langley.  RIght on the Puget Sound, it is two streets of restaurants, galleries, coffee shops and basic needs. The Inn is a lovely FLW type structure with every room having a private waterfront balcony practically extending over the water’s edge (no worries for Hurricanes and erosion, but tsunmais yes!) Large rooms and bathroom with waterfront tub, it is known for its restaurant. It only serves on the weekends however, but breakfast is included and it is a divine, understated gourmet experience.

Walked up the street, surveyed the restaurants and chose the new seafood spot, Saltwater, that was small and very jovial. Perched in the window table, we gorged on WA state oysters and various local seafoods. In bed by 9:30. Slept with the porch door open to hear the water. (No AC in these environs.)

#aintgoingifitaintboeing     ##lookatmyhairnowbecause #areyousuretherearemountainsoutthere  #hillbillyelegy  #Irma

Friday, 9/8 Lake Crescent, Olympic National Park, WA

Hit the road for Coupeville to get the ferry from Fort Casey State Park to go to Port Townsend, which is where we originally thought to stay until the Wooden Boat Festival squashed that.  "People book their hotels 7 years out.“ But frankly, happier with how it worked out. PT is a charming town too, known for its Victorian meets Boho vibe. We cruised the festival, which was actually fascinating to see everything in wood, sailboats, motor boats of every size and personality, plus paddle boards, kayaks, etc. It’s a Thing clearly. Lunched at the Silverwater Cafe and onward to Olympic National Park about 1.5 hrs away to Hurricane Ridge, which is supposed (key word here) to be a park highlight, but alas, it was socked in from rain and fog this time, not smoke.  Nevertheless, it cleared some to get a glimpse of the mtns and we hiked the minor paths around the visitors center. (Tip: Should have gone 5 mins more to hike Hurricane Hill.)  Drove down and over to Lake Crescent Lodge, which is a typical National Park Inn about 45 minutes away. Rustic and quaint, the main lodge is small and totally charming with burning fire, front enclosed porch on the lake and a hodge podge of newer room additions scattered around the grounds.  We flipped for the small room with no private bath (gotta love a Nat’l Park Inn) in the lodge as opposed to the motor lodge style Marymere freestanding building with 2 queen beds and private bath. 

The lake is known for it azure blue waters and 600+ feet deep. Late evening made it was hard to see this, but still a bucolic setting with killer sunset.  The restaurant is known for its food and prices reflect that. Fantastic selection of food, all local fare and good wines list from around the PNW.

#Paulsbirthday  #yougetit?  #cannabis  #CHECK  #patches

Saturday, Sept 9  - Lake Quinault, Olympic National Forest, WA

Rain greeted our awakening.  After a big breakfast, we piled in the minivan and headed to the Sol Duc Falls hike about a 40 minute drive from Lake Crescent. Debated the Marymere Falls hike right at Lake Crescent, but with sights on reaching the Hoh Rainforest, we punted. "Ducked” into the Sol Duc Lodge to see the hot springs, which are contained in a pool setting. Ick, but great for families. Lake Crescent is preferable for us sorts.

The Sol Duc Falls is a fab hike 1 mile through the forest which was our first taste of a temperate rainforest where beautiful meshes with eerie. Huge towering maples, firs, spruce, and hemlock are draped in moss with the entire forest floor covered in waist high ferns. The falls are a creek going through a narrow canyon that is covered in moss and the basalt rocks are smoothed to rival a Harry Moore sculpture.  Def worth the trip.

Original plans were to head to the coast around Hwy 101 to see Shi Shi Beach, but the weather and tides rerouted us to the Hoh Rainforest on the southwest part of the park before parking it at Lake Quinault Lodge.  The rainforest, famed for the filming of a Star Wars movie, is a wonder for the eyes and the rainy mist only added to the atmosphere. The 1 mile Hall of Mosses Loop at the visitor center is a highlight as the lush and massive vegetation is mesmerizing. From there, we went on to the Hoh Rainforest trail which can be as much as 18 miles and on into Mount Olympus is you want, but we did 3 miles in to Tom’s Creek and turned back for a wonderful 6 miler along the Hoh River in the depths of the rainforest.

It was about a 2 hr drive to Lake Quinault Lodge (with a quick turn-in to the world’s largest cedar….underwhelming and decaying, there also seems to be a number of the world’s largest some kind of tree in the park) on the edge of the park in the Olympic National Forest and right on the Lake. Built in two months in the 20’s, it is beautiful cedar shingled lodge with a huge green lawn spilling into the lake’s shore and lots of activities from horseshoes to paddle boards and kayaks and always a fire in the large fireplace.  Dinner in the lodge was fine, but not on par with Lake Crescent. If you go, consider taking one of the rooms in the outer buildings.  The lodge walls are clearly the same plywood from 1920 and you can hear every breath on every side.

#Yougotit  #namethattune  #worldsbiggestcedar

Sunday, September 10 - Lake Quinault, Olympic National Forest, WA

Bingo…we hedged our bets on the weather to save for the coast and the low tide and we were rewarded with a crystal blue and warm sunny day.  On the road at 8:30 after a great breakfast Sammy at the LQ Mercantile across the street. We backtracked up 101 about 1.5 hours away to Second Beach. Nice little 1 mile trek to the beach which was low tide and dotted with tidal pools, sea stacks rock outcroppings and tents in the tree strewn shores. Fun to see a different terrain and different from the east coast beaches. The rock stacks were carpeted in periwinkles, mussels, colorful anemones and an occasional sea star (starfish.) Weathered tree trucks line the sandy shore with carved pieces for the perfect driftwood. Popped up to First beach/Rialto beach which is mostly home to one of the 8 Indian tribes reservations on the peninsula, and headed back to LQ. Note: we probably could have done the closer beaches of Number 1, 2 3 and 4 beaches near Ruby Beach and been just as happy.

Once back, the clan scattered to walk to LQ nature trail, kayak in the lake or chill with the Panthers. The adirondack chairs (LQ chairs?) and blue skies beckoned for a cold beer and toes in the grass.

Cleaned up for an evening drive on the Lake Quinault Rainforest Loop, which goes by the lake into the headwaters of the Quinault River and looping around through the Quinault Rainforest and opposite lake shore back to the lodge.  The hope was to spot wildlife at dusk, which only produced a sighting of Sasquatch and the spooky fern and moss habitat.  It was fab.  Def a must. Note: this would be a great bike ride that is mostly flat with one challenging spot. Mainly a dirt road, it is best for mountain bike or hybrid bikes.  Probably a 15 mile route.

Dinner was at The Salmon House just down the road.  True to the area’s basic interior decor, it is known for salmon every way.  If you are prone to smoked salmon, this is the way to go, as it is made in house, but baked, blackened, etc beckons as well.  There are other seafood and land food for those wary of salmon. Martinis go particularly well with salmon.

#Forksgasstationburritos  #panthersdown49ers  #kidsmenu  #wildolympicsactjennifer #lunchslump

Monday, September 11 - Paradise, Mt. Rainer National Park, WA

Cranked up the Sienna and spilt for Mt. Rainer National Park, 3.5 hours away and at 14,600 ft is the highest in the Cascades and 5th highest in the lower 48 states.  Stopped in Asheford before entering the Park and had lunch at a great open air spot called Basecamp Bar and Grill which is a multipurpose spot for guides, retail and rooms esp for those interested in summiting Mt. Rainer (maybe not.) We arrived at Paradise Inn (6000 feet) and Visitor’s Center and immediately took off for the Skyline Trail which is about a 5 mile loop up the base of Mt. Rainer, at 7200 feet, though you can continue without a permit to Muir Base Camp at 9000 ft.  We lucked out as it was a gorgeous and warm day and the Mtn was in its full glory, and this is not always the case as people have been there a week and never seen it.

This is a flat out fabulous hike. One of the best I have ever done. It is a 1200 ft rise (no doubt its the altitude, not being out of shape that is making you huff and puff!), but there were all sorts of sizes and ages doing the hike. Take the left side of the trail as it has the Mtn visible the whole time and the right side of the loop does not and your back would be to it when returning the other side. Breathtaking and varied in terrain. It took about 3 hours to hike.

The Paradise Inn is also a must as it is the first of the rustic, natural materials style that others such as Old Faithful and the Awhanee were fashioned after. It is a wonderful space of a large, open common space/lobby surrounded by a relatively private mezzanine. The dining room is basic, but the food is good. Note however, that the Inn is undergoing major renovations to secure the foundation and all the rooms in the wing with private baths are closed which is supposed to go on for the next 4 years. The rooms that we were in were with 2 singles in a minute road with a sink. The showers were down the hall and the bathrooms were down the hall and around the corner. Rooms were provided with robes and footies for germaphobes. The Inn and roads close in mid-October for the winter which gets up to 800 inches of snow in a season.

Dinner was in the decent enough dining room unless you want to drive steep, curvy canyon roads for 30 mins, which plenty of locals do, including our dinner guest, Park Ranger Nan Pace from Raleigh.

#happybirthdaydaddy  #adorablerooms  

Tuesday, September 12 - Mt. Rainer National Park, WA

Alas, original plans were to head to Sunrise in the Northeast area of the park, but forest fires had closed much of the northern parts of the Park. So, we regrouped and took the advice from Nan and went to the Stevens Canyon area.  First stop was Box Canyon and then to Reflection Lake to take the Pinnacle Peak trail.  A short, but steep trail up to a peak in the Tatoush Mtns, this was a trail flanked on all sides by wild blueberry bushes full of the fruit. Locals bring their containers to pick the allotted pint per week. With the brushes came lots of bear hair as well. The views at the top are outstanding with a full view of Mt. Rainer and opposite of Mt. Adams and also Hood in the far distance.

At the bottom, we took the Lakes Trail to the left, up to the High Lakes Trail and around for a fantastic vista over Louise Lake and Reflection Lake before descending back to the parking lot, in total about 3 miles.

Lunch was at the Box Canyon overlook as we drove onto the Grove of the Patriarchs, an easy 1.3 mile loop in an old forest growth with huge trees over 1000 years old.  A must if possible.

Always overzealous, dust and whooped legs curbed usual enthusiasm to do the Silver Falls Trail and we zoomed up the Stevens Canyon Rd towards showers and martinis. Another dinner in the Dining Room and nightcaps in the mezzanine sadly toasting the Sellers last night.                                                                                                                                                              

Wednesday, September 13 - Mt Hood National Forest, Oregon

Hugged the Sellers so long and set Waze for Mt. St. Helens. After 2 hours, we stopped at the Mt. St. Helen’s Visitor Center, which while good, can be skipped if you are going to the David Johnson Memorial Observatory which is spectacular, 5 miles from the Mtn. Base. This is about 45 miles from the Visitor Center and beyond worth it.

The Observatory, so named for the Geologist who was at this location as they studied MSH and killed when it blew in the ensuing landslide, is excellent with displays, survivor stories and two excellent movies on the actual event and why and then on ecological results. All fantastic, mind-blowing and hard to comprehend. The before and after are amazing and 37 years later is still the stark, razed landscape, though with the return of the emerging wildlife and forest.

Options for hikes also start here, but we were out of time since we were driving on to Mt Hood and more forest fires on the Columbia River Gorge had closed the fastest route.

Arrived late after a three hr drive at the Timberline Lodge for dinner at the famed Cascade Dining Room. The Lodge is a treat for the eyes and the soul, both inside and out with 360 degree views of Mt Hood and the Cascades/Columbia River Gorge. Every part of the lodge was hand made and constructed by the WPA from 1935-1937. The story is fascinating and the results are beautiful. It is a basically a museum, but a very active place for all seasons as Roosevelt hoped. Craftsman taught out-of-work and unskilled workers crafts from weaving the curtains and rugs to making the furniture, carvings on the handrails, iron works for every hinge and decor in doors, handrails, beds, andirons, etc. Unknown artists were hired to do paintings, murals, mosaics, and wall carvings.  Everything is stunning and a marvel to admire.

The Lodge is right at the base of Mt Hood and first and foremost is a ski lodge, but hikes including the Pacific Crest Trail and the Timberline Trail go right by it.

Dinner is in the cozy and small Cascade dining room which is known for its truly artesian and gourmet fare by a renowned chef.  It did NOT disappoint.  The wine list was pages and pages long and all the food in keeping with the theme of the hotel of combining the natural environment with artistic expression.  There are several other cafes and bars around which were not open for the month of Sept, but a must to see for the art. The mezzanine Ram’s Club bar works very well for an open, yet intimate setting. This place is incredible.

Tip: Ate lunch in Toutle at Dale’s Grocery as advised by the Visitor Center since the Observatory has little in the food option category.

#DQ  

Thursday, September 14 - Cannon Beach, OR

Uncontained wildfires all along the Columbia River Gorge had closed any access to the area, with I-84 closed in both directions and smoke permeating the air and sky. The air quality had gotten much worse from the previous day when we still had fantastic views. The same mountains were hazy today and the air was smoked smelling.  We did an fairly short, but intense vertical hike midway up the mtn to 7000 feet and left, abandoning plans to even go to Hood River which would have been an ash-filled waste of time.

So off to Astoria before arriving at Cannon Beach. It was a solid 3.5 hr drive to Astoria from Mt Hood and Astoria itself is not the gem of the coastline. It does however have a great maritime museum which is worth going to. Very interesting to learn about the Columbia River bar, which is where the huge Columbia River meets the Pacific and has constantly shifting sand bars and wicked weather.

Next up: Cannon Beach which is a delightful gray shingled small beach town about 40 minutes from Astoria. The famed Haystack rock formation appears gargantuan as you round the curve up on the hillside towards The Ocean Lodge just outside of town was worrisome to read the rustic description in the guide book, but alas, that moron meant a rustic motif, not in actuality. It was quite lovely, with upscale everything, small kitchenette, fireplaces, big bathrooms and oceanfront balcony.

A stroll down the beach to see the rock formations, seagulls pulling dungeness crabs from the shallow waters and back in time to be ready for a gorgeous west coast sunset before heading in town for a most buzzy dinner with NC friends Tim Warmath and partner Ed.

#8pmlastseating??   #Tsunamizone

Friday, September 15 - Cannon Beach, Oregon

Based on Timmy and Ed’s recs, we left for Oswald State Park to do the Falcon Trail along the forested coastline to incredible shoreline vistas.  Picnicked at another excellent State Park called Ecole State Park at Indian Beach climbing on the rock formations at low tide. The Pacific Coast trail goes through all of these parks if you are so inclined.

We hung up our hiking shoes and cruised Cannon Beach town, feeling a mix of Nantucket and Atlantic Beach. A pre-sunset barefoot walk on the beach revealed just exactly how numbingly cold the water really is.  

Dinner that night was at The Stephanie Inn, happily right next door to us and to which both restaurant and inn are supposed to be all that.  The food was outstanding, but we were underwhelmed with the property and happy with our digs.

Tip: Great grocery market called The Fresh Market, just down from the Hotel on Hemlock. Pick up a picnic there.

Saturday, September 16 - Portland, Oregon

Timmy and Ed laid out our 1 day itinerary in Portland for us which is as follows:

Get settled at the Kimpton and then walk thru downtown to Powell’s and to the Pearl District ( be sure to walk the three squares: Jamison; Tanner Springs; the Fields) then have lunch on the roof of 10 Barrels Brewing or at Paragon. Also pop into the coffee shop called Barista - best coffee ever ( NW 13th Ave)

Then take an uber up to the Japanese Gardens; Hoyt Arboretum & Rose Gardens - beautiful gardens & views.

Depending on your timing, From there I would go to Chapman Elementary school to see the Swifts return to the smokestack - so beautiful and a real Portland scene ( take a bottle of wine and sit on the hillside watching the birds & sunset ) You need to be there from about 7:00 pm to 7:40 or so - the birds literally descend in (by the thousands) just after sunset.

Then stroll down to NW 23rd Ave and enjoy the many restaurants & shops. We liked the Fireside for drinks and don’t miss Salt & Straw for an ice cream. The lines are long but that is because everyone gets unlimited tastings and it is part of the fun.  

Then hop on the Portland Streetcar ( the green line called the NS line) and it takes you right back to your hotel.

We actually adapted this to our needs and all in all Portland was a great change up. Walked a lot doing most of the above, but also tossed in a jaunt to Nordstrom’s and a excellent dinner at Q restaurant and of course an educational pit stop at the gluten free cannabis store. All were highlights for a great ending to an outstanding and varied trip!

Sunday, September 17 

4:30 am alarm clock. Boo hiss.

#pacific northwest #washington #oregon #national park

[aureliasaid]

Creeping in Va

Va Creeper Trail August 18-20, 2017 

Friday

Dropped our soon-to-be 20something at RDU bound for Copenhagen and we headed to....Abingdon, Va. Bikes on rack, helmets in tow, we headed to southwestern tip of Va. An historic town with roots back to revolutionary times, Abingdon is known these days for its famed Barter Theater (and Barter Theater II) that brings in visitors for its year round live theater. The Virginia Creeper Trail has brought it more recent fame for the 34 miles rail to trail hiking and biking path along most of the Holston River. And this weekend, the Bristol NASCAR race series brought plenty of visitors as well from the 100000 fans attending each of the nighttime races at nearby Bristol, TN. Which all means, if you don't plan ahead, be prepared to pay jacked up prices if you can get a room at all. Accommodations are varied from cabins to B&B's and basic indy motel sorts. We paid up and landed a suite at the Martha Washington Inn and Spa which is by far the nicest accommodations around and long known for its hospitality and historic angle. The Martha, as they refer to it, is right on Main St and is a gentle but majestic building with large, comfy front porch. Its a lovable hodge-lodge that shows the efforts at keeping up with the Jones and times through the decades, but its small town mentality keeps it on this side of quaint. The common spaces are quite varied with the library and front porch a highlight. The spa, fitness, indoor/outdoorish pool and outdoor hot tub are new and a nice addition. Two well kept hard tennis courts and mini golf are a bit of an oddity, but bonus for those interested. The dining room and bar is in keeping with the historic feel full of dark wood and high ceilings. The breakfast was included and very generous. Dinner is supposedly very good though uncreative and note, was booked solid pre-theater. Our bedroom was quite the red velvet tribute to the Civil War and the suite that we had to resort to was more of a parlor. But updated TVs and new bathroom was a plus. The town is totally charming both in its red brick historic buildings on the very walkable Main Street and just the overall small size of it. We walked out the hotel, right across from the theater and down two blocks to 128 Pecan restaurant which is a casual atmosphere and good enough food. 

Saturday

Saturday morning and the weather was a bit foggy but promised to be clear blue skies and 85 degrees. We booked the Martha Creeper Shuttle to take us to White Top Mtn about 45 mins ride to the top of the Creeper Trailhead. There are many bike shops and outfitters that will do this with or without renting you bikes. And off we went. It is an 18 mile ride downhill on a wide, dirt and crushed rock trail mostly through the woods to Demascus. You are riding over a total of 47 purpose built bridges and beside the Holston River which makes for a really delightful ride. Since this is in the Mt. Rodgers National Forest, the are bathroom stops along the way, plus some enterprising restaurants. 

But Damascus was our stop with a yummy lunch at the Inn the Country, a sandwich and ice cream cafe as you first arrive into the town. The second half ride from Demascus to Abingdon is more level with a slight gradual elevation into town with more open meadows. 

The trail eases into town and lands you back on Pecan St, a perfect location to take a right and go 4 blocks to the Wolf Hill Brewery. An old wooden large shed that is basically open air with garage door closing and overhead heaters for the winter, it has a large variety of their brews, perfect to wash down after 34 miles. We headed back to hot tub and then back to the brewery for the live band, The Floor Boards, playing a bluesy rock set before heading to The Tavern, the oldest building in Abingdon, for dinner. A mossy roof and low ceilings are the perfect atmosphere for a delicious but not cheap dinner. A nightcap on the Martha porch made for a perfect day/birthday weekend for William and our buddies, the Lesemanns. 

Sunday

Sunday was a hike in the Wytheville area which was on the way home off I-81/I-77. We did the High Rocks trail which was a 2.7 mile hike round trip up the mountain through the woods for a fantastic 300 degree view of the whole area. Perfect to get your heart rate up but could be done in 1.5 hours total with time for a sit, view and snack at the top. Other hikes that were considered in the Abingdon area was The Channels, which was too long for our timing at 7 miles RT and the Devil's Bathtub, but was further west by an hr. Of course, Mt Rogers and the AT is all around the Creeper trail, but we didn't want to head back up the mtn. Also Seven Sisters in Wytheville, but also too long for our timing. All in all, pretty fantastic.

#virginia #usa #creeper trail

[aureliasaid]

How Far in the Dolomites

Dolomites, Italy July 22-30, 2017

Sunday, 7/23

Arrived Venice a bit late after a 2 hr weather delay in Philly. Driver picked us up and we headed to Verona for a view and lunch before heading to Alpe di Siusi region of the Dolomites. A bit foggy in the head of course, we did a fly-through of Verona with a ride to the top of a hill for a view and a tour of the Roman amphitheater. Very pretty town all uniform in color and tiled roofs.  Lunch was in the center (central) on an off street from the main shopping drag at Locanda 4 Cuochi and 100 meters from the famous balcony window of Juliette in Romeo and Juliette.  Packed with tourists in the small courtyard inside a re-purposed palazzo, we looked and left.  It was about a 1.5 hour drive to our hotel Alpina Dolomiti.

A very lovely, new hotel with awesome (Giordi’s favorite English word) views at the top of the ski mtn in a big meadow sitting just below the mountain monoliths jutting out of the meadows. Quite the curvy drive up (don’t sit backwards) to the top but great views of the first main group of mountains, the Sassolungo and Sassopiatto. Beautiful breakfast and dinners included and with full spa, indoor/outdoor pool and right at the gondola. We met with Giordano (Giordi) to plan the week’s activities before dinner which is included. The proprietors also own a hotel in the village below called Gardena Grödnerhof Gourmet & Spa Hotel in Ortisei in Val Gardena.

Monday, 7/24

Met Giordi at 9am to go biking on the trails. We rented e-bikes which are all the Euro rage and the only way to bike this area IMO with serious inclines and vertical rise. There are trails, slope (piste) access road, regular roads and paved single back roads/trails. We had mountain bikes and rode on a mix of all of the above. The entire area is connected by trails and ski chairlifts and gondolas, so you can hike and ski the whole region extensively from trail to trail and slope to slope. Saw everything from cows with cowbells/ donkeys/ and horses in steep meadows to streams, cliffs wildflowers all surrounded by the amazing mountains.  Weather started out beautiful, but storms moved in so that the last 15 minutes of our ride was in pouring rain before getting to the “hutte” (hut) for lunch. (This one had a particularly cool - modern and spacious - bathroom!)

There are truly tiny wooden huts dotting the Sudtirol landscape everywhere that are owned privately, but the lunch huts are typically restaurants at the mtn top located near the chairlifts and gondolas.  Some have rooms for staying, most are just day restaurants. Often not so much to see from the outside, they are full of character inside and delicious food. Lots of times, there are activities for kiddies outside like playgrounds, etc. This time it was a haven from the rain which was also lightening and thunder. While it continued to storm for 2 hrs, we ordered red wine and played Heads Up to the amusement of those around us. Finally cleared up, though noticeably colder with new snowfall on the not too distance peaks, enough to head back and take a taxi service back to our hotel that Giordi arranged from the mtn top.  A big help. Unique and great day despite rain. Covered somewhere between 25 and 39K depending on who you asked?

Low point - deciding to go on for “300 meters only” on a tough rocky thin trail when it was clear a storm was coming in 5 minutes; Alicia taking a spill on a wet wooden bridge; Mike’s e-bike locking up; seeking shelter under a ski-lift that offered no shelter from lightening; no answer to “How far?”; didn’t finish “the loop”

High points - all day, scenery; e-bikes going up a hill, awesome modern euro bathrooms with everyone using the hand dryers to ray their clothes, zuppa d patate, Heads Up, hot tub back at the hotel.

#ineed2sheetz; #nakedshoulder; #poufypouf; #stomachmassage; #nakedgermans

Tuesday, 7/25

To prevent similar weather mishaps, Giordi got us going at 8am to go on our hiking complete with bags packed for the next destination. We left the Val di Gardena and eventually heading to Val Badia and San Cassiano to Rosa Alpina Hotel. Our car dropped us off  at the Dentercepies Gondola in Selva di Val Gardena and took our luggage on as we were to hike to the hotel. We hiked around the for about 10 K over about 5 hours, through the village of Corvara  and landed at the Rifugio Colalt (2000 meters) Hut for a great meal, again. This time was tagliatelle with venison ragu….and red wine of local grape called Lagriend. Long debate about going or taking the chairlift down and take a taxi back to the hotel. Storm chasers lost (and a good decision) as rains moved in and tired legs could recover at the hotel. Steep hike down from the hut through a wooded forest, which was pretty but telling on the knees. Now get the ubiquitous Euro use of poles.

The Rosa Alpina is in the heart of tiny San Cassiano and is lovely, very alpine in look and feel.  Snug and intimate, but plenty of space, it uses every inch efficiently for two indoor pools, outdoor garden, lovely common areas, spa, etc. Good for families and just adults. It has the best restaurant in the Dolomites with 2 Michelin stars, but allora…not for us.  Too fancy.  We chose their grill which was perfect for pizza sitting outside and with blankets over us.

As always, weather required layers, though not terribly chilly.  Just cool, esp at higher elevations.

Low points - storm discussion/potential; free grappa (tastes likes gasoline)

High points - All day, views, lunch and the proprietor, pizza and the outdoor setting for dinner; brunello

Wednesday, 7/26

A short ride up the mountain to the gondola area where we started immediately on the trail though a small meadow before walking along a thin trail on the ledge of the mountain side with incredible views 360 degrees of all the Dolomites peaks and formations. Unreal beauty and very diverse landscape and trails through rock fields, meadows, and mtn ledges. An 11k hike  for 4 hours until breaking into a meadow and lunching at the next hutte.  This was spectacular hiking as we were much more in the higher elevations and in the rocky mountainside. Wildflowers, an ibex and 360 degree views, some of the trail parts were not for everyone. This was trail number 23 (we called the Jordan Trail.)

There are millions of trails and all levels of degrees and can be hiked in a million different ways. All are very well marked both along the trail and at intersecting trails. Giordi definitely pushed us and while it was trying at times from rocky steep inclines to don’t-look-below narrow trails along the mountainsides, we were always glad to have done it.  Views are spectacular.

We invited Giordi and his girlfriend Monica to join us for dinner, going to the next village for a place known for its grilled foods called L’Fana just down the road in Badia. It was on the basement floor and lots of alpine, intimate, low ceiling atmosphere. We had house speciality of steak tartare, grilled t-bone and a Fiortina style (Tuscan aged haunch grilled rare) plus mixed grills and some local pastas.  Great night.

Low points - knee aches

High points - Seeing the Ibex just below scale a boulder as if Velcro on its hooves, the whole trail, wild flowers, lunch at Rifugio Pralongia Hutte with adorable frau who spoke 8 languages, and the proprietor in his lederhosen shorts; excellent local brut and grappa di grassi…and dinner of course.

#knifewieldingmonicasnotavegatarian; #gordyhearsrain; #bendyourelbows; #dashinheredashinthere; #manneqinsrcold; #aureliaheartsthetunes

Thursday, 7/27

Today was a “rest day” going back to our starting point yesterday but taking the “cableway” up to the top of Falzarengo to see the “open air museum” and the Trail de Grande Guerre" which are hikes and explorations of the Austrian-Hungarian holds in this mtn full of tunnels and war holes to fight the Italians during WWI. (The Italians won.) This is fascinating and way up at the top of the mountain with unreal surrounding views.  Chilly overcast day and colder at the top.  Used every layer and happy to have Giordi’s gloves as well.  Went back down to hike to the Cinque Torri or 5 Towers, a wonderful upcropping of five peaks particularly known for beginning climbing and for the Italian war forts and hideaways.  Not a long hike, but def strenuous at times, esp in the steep and rocky climb near the top and the ledge trail to get to the Refugio Lagzuoi Hut. Polenta and Goulash warmed the body together with a local Pinot Nero.  Quite the rest day.  Giordi carried climbing gear, in case, to try at the Cinque Torri.  Alas, another time.

After lunch, tired legs took us another half K to the chairlift down to Cortina, known for it glitz and glamor and sort of the Aspen of Italy, esp in the heyday of the La Dolce Vita 50’s and 60’s.  A taxi took us to a short distance to the Hotel Cristallo, a bit above and overlooking the main town. Arriving late, we chose to stay in and eat from the bar menu. They set a table on the veranda, loaded us up with blankets, had soup, salad, burgers and such bar food, enjoying the view of the Cinque Torri and surrounding mountains.

The Cristallo Hotel is old and famous with great photos from its past, reminiscent perhaps of the Sun Valley Inn.  It is quite modern, though old world in decor.  A grand, fairly large place, it is definitely quiet and relaxing. Another good option would be to stay in town for the bustle of it all.

Low points - seeing the final ledge walk; a not hot enough hot tub

High Points - the whole day, esp the 5 Torri and WWI Lopez air exhibits,  hotel tour giggles, blankets and bellinis

#aureluiaskatesthroughthespa; #frauleingetsthegiggles; #gordy'smathsucks; #weclosedtheloop; #grassygrappo; #blueberryliquor

Friday, 7/28

Upon request of another day of e-biking, Giordi planned an “easy” day around Cortina by bike. All started well through town, old railroad rail to trails and through meadows. Not very familiar with the area, the ride was shorter than he expected and so he suggested we could go on to the next hut, but he did say it would be a 1000 meter incline and rather hard. We declined, but somehow as with Giordi and his infectious enthusiasm, we ended up doing it.  It was hard and not very fun, but finally arrived in an open alpine valley rocky meadow with mountains surrounding us. He was thrilled. “He was so happy that we made the Rifugio Sennes Hutte.”

Whether hiking or biking, downhill not always fun, but we handled this better than expected. Once back, we turned in the bikes and turned up a bierra.  An adventure, but glad we did it after it was over. The hotel fetched us from town and Giordi and Monica joined us in the Cristallo garden for a beer and goodbyes where he presented us with the local Lagriend and Gurtztrameiner wines.

We cleaned up and headed into town for a walk around. It is a fun town and the Centro has a good mix of high fashion and outdoor stores. Fun to poke around. We dined at the Porto Rotondo right in the center beside the wonderful white church and its bell tower that dominates the valley vista. Famous for its pizza, we ate inside by default since outside was full and glad we did, both for the comfort of cozy and warm, but mostly for the fantastic photos dotting the walls of celebs throughout the years in Sardenia, where the owner is from plus his special desserts of ricotta cheese and black honey and a blackberry-jello type thing.

Low points - Guess, plus a wipe out in the easy flats.

High points - Radler (aka a shanty in English), walking through town and dinner, making Gordy so happy, charging station at hut

#wetakeatouraround; #mathsucksagain, #nohugsforMikey

Saturday, 7/29

Ciao to the Dolomiti as a driver takes us to Venice for a day of boating and exploring the outer islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello. Murano never ceases to amaze the wonders of watching and learning about glass blowing. We then headed to Burano where the art of lace making became famous. The houses and piazzas are know for their colorful palette and cleanliness. The lacemaking art is not as widespread now as it is so expensive, but it is amazing to learn about it and watch it being made. A design is drawn on paper and then one woman specializing in a particular stitch will work on it and then pass to another who specializing in a different stitch.  The finished piece is true art as we saw in a small museum.

On to Torcello which is tiny with virtually no inhabitants and only one small canal entrance and exit.  There are several restaurants for day trippers including the Locanda Cipriani, which is a relative of the famous Cipriani bar and hotels. Lunch in their garden is a special occasion, that still can be relaxed and casual. A true treat. Back for a aerial view from San Giorgio church bell tower also seeing a fine dinner being set up next door for Yachting buyers and San Giorgio as a location for the Art Biannale around the city, featuring Micheangelo somebody famous from Milan and his very contemporary use of mirrors.

Back to the Gritti for drinks before heading to Hosteria al Vecio Bragosso, which was suggested by the hotel and where locals go. I didn’t love the street, but the restaurant was delicious esp the Tubot per duo al forno.  Amazing and funny as per.

#bestbellinisever; #areyouthemonks

Sunday, 7/30

Woke up to a cancelled flight, no rooms at the Inn and rebooked by American for Wednesday.  Not many options, but luckily landed on a Delta flight. Passport control Italian typicalities of long lines and inefficiencies lead to flight delays, but that’s travel and besides, it only adds to the story!

#respecttheweekend  #Howfar  #easy  #raddler  #wheretonext? 

#italy #dolomites #venice

[aureliasaid]

A Wedding in Winston

Sterling Kelly Wedding

So when you all gather for a family wedding, that is the bottom line for the fun total. But being in Winston-Salem added value to the overall proposition…no pun intended. Here’s why:

We stayed at the new Cardinal Hotel, a Kimpinski hotel in the former R. J. Reynolds Tobacco HQ. It is fab with NC relevant and somewhat quirky nuances in the decor. The basement has a full activity area with bowling alleys, pool tables and ¼ size basketball court. The restaurant/bar is a big open space as you enter and the common space in the registration area is also large with lots of sitting areas. Parking is a pain for check-in if a popular time, but they will get that worked out hopefully with more valets and bellmen.

Downtown has got lots going on in the walkable DADA Downtown Arts District - a fun walking area with restaurants, galleries and retail. Other streets around the hotel have plenty of knick knack shops and cafes/coffee shops including the Courtside Cafe.

We had Saturday morning breakfast at Krankie’s Coffee, a warehouse type refurbished place with a creative menu. Millennials and 30 somethings biked up, walked over and pulled up in cars to eat in outdoors or inside.

For lunch, we went to Reynolds Village to see the shops and some to have lunch at The Tavern and some at the Silo Bistro and Bar.

Breakfast Sunday morning took us over to the arts district and to The Famous Toastery, a dog friendly, large outdoor covered seating area and a smaller inside area. Def a wait on Sunday at 10, but it moved pretty quickly.

A short, but sweet visit, we got a taste of Winston and all that it has to offer. We will go back for the biking the lots of greenway space and trails or even over to Yadkin County wineries, city festivals or August tennis tourney.

#sutlersgin #Kimptoncardinal #usa #winston salem

[aureliasaid]

The Ceiling is the Roof  On Board the Dealer Ship - Exumas

Exuma Islands to Nassau, Bahamas 

March 5-12, 2017

Sunday, March 5 - Anchored at Stocking Island Bay

Wheels Up...literally as we leave Greenville and are in Georgetown, Great Exhuma, two hours later.  Took longer to get through customs than practically it did to fly there.  A nasty, windy low pressure all over the Caribbean and apparently south Fla, so fluidity and flexibility the key to happiness. Elvis saturated us en route to The Dealer Ship, where Cat, Frank and John greeted us on board with hot towels, champagne, gorgeous flowers, cucumber water and a charcuterie platter.  What weather??

Settling in and hanging out on the newly varnished table on the aft deck and pretty much stay there. And why not?  Dinner on board was delicious of Low Country shrimp and andouille sausage gumbo over rice with salad and asparagus. Heaven.

#freshfruitandvegetables  #nightandday    #35knots

Monday, March 6 - Anchored at Stocking Island Bay

Supposed to leave today to head towards Cat Island and Conception Island, which is across big water and on the"outside" of the island chains, but the winds ended that, so we explored Stocking Island across from Georgetown. Deposited at the Chat and Chill restaurant, we walked around the cove and forded a small channel at low tide to get on the Monument Trail and Indigo Trail. You can walk the beach to get to the trail up to the monument or you can walk the ridge and down through the tree canopy/brush the whole way for great 360 degree views of Stocking and beyond. Continue down the hill to the hurricane hole and old abandoned resort for a protected and pretty beach since the ocean side beach was VERY rough and windy from the winds.

Back for lunch at Chat and Chill which went from being deserted to being a happening spot, running into friends from the States, Bill Abernathy and family and Tracy and Giles Tucker, who have a house on Great Exhuma, near Georgetown in February Point.

Back for chat and chill on board before dinner of grilled BBQ chicken, slaw, roasted brussels sprouts and new potatoes. Fab. A dessert of Cards Against Humanity made for a ROTFLMAO evening.

#Runningoutofsemen    #grilledcheeseandfrenchfries   #CallJohntobringthedinghy #anchorlullabye    #sleepmachine

Tuesday, March 7 - Travel from Stocking Island to Big Majors/Fowl Cays

Just sit right back and you'll hear a tale, a tale of a fateful trip, that started from this Stocking Port, aboard the Dealer Ship.

Brian was a mighty sailin' man, Frank was brave and sure, eight passengers set sail that day for a three hour tour, a three hour tour.

The weather started getting rough, the Dealer Ship was tossed. If not for the patch and Dramamine, the guests would have tossed, oh but one did toss.

The ship's anchored on the shore of this luxury Bahama isle with Aurelia, her husband too, the newsman and his wife, Hanky Pank, the car dealer, Jim and Louise here on The Dealer Ship.

Dinner at Fowl Cay was certainly fine, stuffed snapper with crab or ribs, it will "fly you to the moon," all free for $23 thou.

So this is the tale of our castaways, they are here for not enough time. They'll definitely make the best of it, it certainly won't be hard.

Cat and John and the Skipper too will do their very best, to make the others comfortable in their tropic island nest.

Cell phones, movies and Hermes china, every single luxury like Leo DiCapprio, its as fine as it can be.

So join us here each week my friends, we are never gonna leave. The eight lucky wannabes here on The Dealer Ship!!

P.S. After anchoring near Fowl Cay and Big Majors, it was a bit of a relief to step onto terra firma and have a meal prepared for us at Fowl Cay resort. Another cool and small island of several villas complete with a boat for each and restaurant. Book ahead for dinner and your choice of two entrees, drinks and house wine all included. The snapper stuffed with crab meat was delish as was the short ribs. Divine.

#600footshark   #nursesharks   #23thousand  #JuliaRobertsmovies  #xanax

Wednesday, March 8 - Fowl and Big Majors Cay

Winds are down, temp is up and a dinghy ride first and MOST importantly to see and feed the pigs at Big Majors Cay.  This was after the crew made their garbage run and stopped to see the pigs with Cat returning with a bite wound to prove it. Onward to Staniel Cay for a walk around the island, trip to the Thunderball Grotto which was rewarding as always, but a powerful current curtailed longevity, so back for our reward at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club where a liquid lunch prevailed, but was deliciously accompanied by fish tacos, lobster salad, and Mahi Mahi sandwiches.

The Dealer Ship left to head towards Compass Cay, one of the most beautiful beaches in the Bahamas, while we took the dinghy from Staniel to meet them there. Lots of commentary, and upon arrival and invigorated from the day's activities plus some liquid courage, we enthusiastically headed for the Bubble Baths on Staniel.  Wind, waves, rain and too many captains steered the boat right back to The Dealer Ship for a hot tub and snacks. Yet, it was decided to go the 3 miles to Compass before partaking in hot tub luxuries. A sunset++ later and no hot tub, the tenderloin dinner was punted, replaced by easy make pasta and salad. Dinner was a delightful calm on the aft and retiring early. A great day.

#Pinacoladafloaters&mudslides   #getmeoffthisdinghy   #3miles  #nolimes

Thursday, March 9 - Anchored at Warderick Wells Cay

SUP? Windy excursion, so haul down the dinghy and off to Warderick Wells Cay for exploring the Bahamas National Trust Park full of walking trails and flora education. Gorgeous large cove with a brilliant white sandy beach and moorings that are reserved through the park service. Spectacular water color of various shades in the cove which is where the hikes depart through the salt flats, black and white mangroves starved for water and battered by Hurricane Matthew making the landscape even more dramatic.  Over and along the ridge of the hardened sand dunes and coral for incredible vistas of the coral rocky cliffs coastline on the other side of the island. Post walk was a delightful swim in the cove and then over to snorkel in the Coral Gardens area at the mouth of the cove.  Mask candy of underwater vegetation and a few LARGE sting rays.

Bits of cell service succeeded in letting it be known that Frank had indeed found a way to have the noon UNC-Miami game on TV, so The Loaner (?) headed back to be greeted by a salon Dean Dome replica and a huge spread of yummy munchies.  A Tar Heel victory and a drop in the winds made for happy travels to Shroud Cay, about an hour away.

Once anchored, off in the dinghy for a cocktail cruise through the mangroves (...at high tide.) Spectacular through the authentic lazy river and ending at a gorgeous area called the Washing Machine at the opposite side of the island emptying into the ocean. Back for actual hot tubbing and cleaned up for tenderloin, grilled romaine, haricots vert and mashed potatoes extending perfection.

#100yards   #seaplanehome   #beachpartyrenig  #Tarheeldecor #nonamingboatsunder30ft

Friday, March 10th Anchored at Shroud Cay

Incredible weather of calm winds, blue sky melting into one with the aqua water. Captain Frank's plan was to drop us at a mangrove cut through, paddleboard cross island and be picked up back at the beach. Quite the trip around the south end of the island to find the cut dried up at low tide. Onward to the next cut, the previous evening cruise. An almost beached dingy, a bow cleat hangup and a paddle decision reversal still made for a delightful time on the beach as the others returned in short order....from the north end of the island.  Gorgeous views up a quick trail where the DEA used to spot on the drug runs, to see a 360 of Shroud. Large, long, white beach with crystal aqua water and the mangrove creeks of sharks and stingrays. Also part of the Bahamian National Trust....totally deserted. Back to lunch and launch to Highbourne Cay.

Beautiful run of about 2 hours to a dock, internet and provisions (limes, t-shirts, and Worcestershire) at Highbourne.  Grabbed the free bikes and took off for great beach views and the Lagoon. Villas all rented by a family 60th birthday gathering who were eating at the lagoon.  Note, bikes and island "venues" all available for boat and villa guests use and golf carts for rent for boat guests. The slightest bit of exercise earned everyone pina coladas, Kaliks, and mudslides owning the bar and the sunset in prep for the Heels-Dookies. Unfortunately, the sun set on the Heels at the ACC tourney...most irritating, but soothed by burgers, roasted veggies and fresh fish in the galley. Defeat cannot dampen paradise.

#theoptimist   #Imhung!   #betterthanCompass  #FrankAllen   #DeputyDogface

Saturday, March 11th - Docked at Highbourne Cay

Joined the 60th birthday party group exercise at the open air gym. Hilarious. Earned our Kaliks for the day. Off by dinghy to Norman Cay to snorkel around a DC-9 drug plane crash. Fascinating and bit creepy as it is largely intact....great reef for good fish viewing and yet another sting ray. The trip alone up in the sound and back in the ocean was spectacular. Water every color of blue on the spectrum and looking as if you could touch the ocean floor just by sticking your hand in the water.  Since the Dealer Ship had to "check out," we met it outside and journeyed to Nassau. What a trip. Glass conditions, outstanding homemade pizza and bright sunshine was magic on the 2.5 hour trip over about 10 feet of water and white ocean floors for a treat of coral viewing.

Hated seeing Atlantis in the horizon meaning our trip was nearing the end. Docking at Bay St. Marina, owned by Tommy Stoughton's cousin Peter Maury, we laughed at dancing spring breakers and hustled to doll up for a trip to Lyford Cay as guests of Ruth E and Frank Holding for dinner at the Yacht Club.  Saturday night in Nassau, two mafia suburban rides and one fab sunset on one end and the full moon at the other ended up at Lyford for a delightful evening of lobster, snapper, and the famous Rum Dums and a martini or two.  A Dook victory, non-negotiated fares, Daylight Savings Time change and no dock key could have created some whimpers, but just not possible.

#$600each   #Ateam   #tooblessedtobestressed

Sunday, March 12 - docked at Bay St. Marina, Nassau, New Providence, Bahamas

Ugh. Make way for the B team, with secret hopes of snow in NC delaying everyone on both ends for one. more. day.

Sigh.

#snowluck  #markcandoit

#Fiazco   #simi    #weddingvideo    #fruitflies    #Delimeat   #wasteful   #sawasailfish   #doyouhaveservice?   #hammerheadshark   #evenbetterthanbefore   #

#bahamas #dealership

[aureliasaid]

En Italia, again!

Will Graduation Trip, May 2016

Lake Como, Milan, Emilia Romgna, Venice

The Skinny:  Family week in northern Italy from Lake Como to Milan to Emilia Romagna to Venice. Some active/outdoor, some sightseeing, some city, some guides, some winging it, some shopping, some unique tours - helps to keep all ages happy.

 It was a last minute trip so we used our travel agent extensively who had her Italian counterparts plan it all. IC Bellagio in conjunction with Virtuoso Travel. Not necessary, but certainly easy if you are short of time to plan and research yourself. Probably way overpaying, but it is top notch with really good guides.

Friday May 13 and Saturday May 14

Friday, May 13th (!) 2016 and Saturday, May 14, 2016 Lago do Como via London Allora, come stai? Molto bene dopo arrivi. Mama mia, travel is so worth it in the end, but never fun getting there. The RDU flight to JFK was late thus ensuring we would miss our flight to Milan, so we were rerouted RDU-Heathrow, Heathrow to Milan, not a bad option except instead of arriving Milan 8:20 am, it would be a 9 hour layover in London and arriving 6pm. Ugh. So make lemonade....go to No. 1 Lounge, a pay-for lounge chain within the larger British airports with everything you want including pod bedrooms, or a shower room, food etc. It was worth every pence of 20 pounds per person! Pods are extra, but depending on your needs, also well worth the 60 pounds for 3 hours. (These can be reserved in advanced and can have a double or single.)

Finalemente, Milano and on to Lago di Como and Bellagio (most certainly not to be confused with Vegas in any way.....) You can get there by rented car, train to Varenna and ferry across, or private hire driver.

The entire region is to die for...steep "pre-Alp" mountains create the lake shore with 4-5 feet out of rocky shallow area and then plunges to become the deepest lake in Europe. (Somewhat reminiscent of an Italian Milford Sound?) Bellagio is 3000 population of locals, but is made up of many smaller communities that have banded together to create a population that the Italian government will support. The Centro Storico, or historical center, is as steep as, and charming as, seaside towns of Positano and Portofino. Numerous hotels of all kinds are there and all around the lake in various towns. We stayed at the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, a lovely old villa converted many years ago into a hotel. There is also Villa Serbelloni now owned by the Rockefeller Foundation and open for tours and gardens. We had dinner poolside at La Goletta in the hotel; nice for weary travel souls or lunch on a sunny day, but venture out into the town otherwise.

Highs: Traveling on Lago di Como roads and the scenery. Getting to the hotel. A shower. No 1 lounge. Lasagna. A glass of the local trebbiano grape Lungarno wine.

Lows: The trip over of course.

Captured moment: Seeing snow on the alps in the distance.

An aside: You could stay here for a week and do many different things including many hikes of all kinds, biking, kayaking and just lounging or visiting the little towns. All seem to have their own charm, even the larger 90k population of Como which is closest to Milan.

Hashtags:

 Sunday, May 15, 2016

Get out on the water....take a tour of the lake however possible. It is both most charming and quickest to get around via water as driving takes forever on the narrow, winding roads around the lake perimeter. There is a full ferry service of car ferries, hydrofoils and catamaran boats, plus private water taxis. You can rent boats and charter boats, but not sure how docking works for the boat rentals though. We had a chartered boat tour for a couple of hours with Rita the tour guide, full of energy and knowledge. The highlight was touring Villa Balbianello which is to die for gorgeous and best done with a guide so you have full access to the house. It is the setting for movie filming (think Star Wars and James Bond, Casino Royale) and weddings for whoever wants to afford it....

Lunch in town at a local spot called Baba Yaga for the oblong, uber thin crust pizza (exactly why I can't eat pizza in the US anymore - #snob) and then joined in the throngs for cruising the town and shops and of course gelato. Sunday is packed throughout the lake villages (and in fact anywhere in Italy) as locals and tourists take their day off for pleasure and ultimately the passeggiata, or walk around. Dinner that night was in Belacus - eat outside in the giardino. Try the regional specialty of Lake fish and riso (perch and rice for the very traditional) or better, perch with risotto.

 Monday, May 16, 2016

What a day. Gorgeous again, which apparently is never a guarantee. Up and ready to hike, we met Rita to catch the Hydrofoil over to Bellano ("nice ass") to hike up and about 5-7Km across the side of the mountain overlooking the villages and the lake to charming village of Verenna (not Verona, be careful if you are taking the train from Milan!) It was steep in places, but mostly flat with amazing views and delightful to be outdoors and see the local homes, pass through small villages and down for lunch shoreside in Varenna. OR grab a panini in the local alimentary before it closes at 12:30 for riposte and have a picnic. We took our sandwiches, hoped on board and headed to Cadenabbia to hike the very steep but short trek to Chiesa de San Martina, a tiny church up high on the mountain overlooking the lake. The views are unreal. Worth the trip especially if you like exercise and the outdoors. Car ferry back and more gelato...of course. Dinner at La Punta on the peninsula point was amazing, upscale but still very, very casual.

  Tuesday, May 17, 2016

Another beautiful day with blue skies and 60's. Checked out and headed to Milan for a fly-by, bucket list trip. "The Last Supper" and the Duomo are the reasons for going and worth every second. Book way ahead for "The Last Supper" in the Basilica Santa Maria Delle Grazie and be sure to go up on top of the Duomo roof. We also visited the Castello Sforzesco, La Scala Opera House and Museum and walked through the Galleria. We splurged for the Mandarin Oriental which was quite posh located next to the fashion district. Lunch, as recommended by the hotel, was Paper Moon, was delicious, but dinner was a total whiff...had a seemingly hip place picked out, but it had changed hands and so we went the traditional route as suggested by the concierge. Solita was typical and forgettable; better to go modern and hip in Milan. Try Un Posto di Milano maybe for dinner or be a tourist and eat at one of the restaurants in the Galleria. For lunch, head to the top of the Rinascente Dept store and eat outside in their rooftop cafe or maybe even for dinner. Quite the Duomo view. Maybe would have loved some extra time to stroll and shop, but alas.....bucket list checked.

 Highs: All and esp "The Last Supper"

Lows: Dottore visit and an entire farmacia; dinner expectations. Trip fatigue.

An aside: Take a guide or reading material or listen to the audio for The Last Supper so you can take in every last detail

 Wednesday, May 18, 2016 Tante Auguri Will!

Departed for Parma, about 1.5 hours south in Emilia Romagna. The countryside flattens out and the grounds become fertile for the food basket of Italy (isn't it all??) The area though is most famous for Proscuitto di Parma, Parmigiano Reggiano, Lambrusco wines and aceto di Balsamico. Stayed at the Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati which is on the Piazza Del Duomo. It has rooms, but we were in newly remodeled modern and spacious two bedroom apartments complete with full kitchen and washing machine; the young adults were digging the space and hang-out area that comes with an apartment. We yearned for a fast/casual lunch and went to the popular Pepen sandwich shop for a take away lunch. This is very local so, while good and culturally interesting and cheap, it might be better to head to the main shopping areas of especially Via Farini, Cavour, Garibaldi, and Manzini and eat a quick and casual lunch at one of the fast cafes, bars, or pizza shops there. We ate in the nearby park, walked the streets, toured the amazing and oldest Romanesque Duomo with the Carreggio painted dome of the acension and to the Baptistry, also very important as a Romanesque style heading into Gothic with its 16 arches meeting at the top.

Will picked our dinner restaurant, which was recommended by several different separate sources, Ristorante Tribunali, which was a hit, both for our waiter and the food. Other restaurant suggestions included La Forchetta, perfect for great outdoor atmosphere and right behind the hotel as well as Parizzi, which apparently is delicious, but maybe more formal that we wanted? We were happy.

 Highs: Ristorante Tribulnali and our 20 year old waiter, Carreggio, shopping

Lows: Replacing the left Euro guidebook

Captured moment: Parma Proscuitto satisfaction An aside - We skipped Bologna, but hear it is a great university city with lots of action. You can base here and do gastronomic tours as well, and get your motor revved with visits to the Ferrari factory and other toys such as Ducati.

Hashtags: #flipflopfobia;

 Thursday, May 19th 2016

Steady rain drowned our plans for biking through the country on a gastronomic tour. So we turned our whine into wine and toured by van...which actually turned out better as we added a few stops and doing anything else in the rain would have been a sightseeing drag! Visited the Consorzio Produttori Latte parmesan factory just outside from Parma which was fascinating. Then onto the Conti Proscuitto factory, a still family owned producer in the hills of Langhirano where all the proscuitto is produced....of all levels, mass or by hand. After, we headed to the Carra family Vineyard for a fab lunch of local favorites and their Lambrusco and Malvasia grape wines, and ending the day in Ronocolo at the Venturini Baldini winery, an agritourismo hotel in the makes (eventually to be a Relais and Chateau) for their traditional balsamic vinegar process. What a day. Heaven for a foodie, interesting at least for a non-foodie. Despite being a busy and atmospheric place full of Italians, Ai Carriere restaurant was a ho-hum since we were full, tired and mostly given that no restaurant can top a food-centric day like that.

 Highs: Every experience of the day and the guide Angelo. Sampling of freshly sliced prosciutto in the Conti tasting room.

Lows: Getting pumped to bike (no pun intended) including no shower and putting on biking clothes to open the shutters to a cold rain. Dinner sub-par experience.

Captured moment: Rows upon rows of Parmesan wheels and Parma hams.

An aside: You can do these food tours through your hotel, find them online or through the tourist office. Not sure how they all work, but you'll get there anyway. having a local guide seem to be money well spent for the inside, personal spots.

Hashtags: #favoriteday #changefromarthistory #thunderstorms

 Friday, May 20th, 2016

The day was gorgeous....can't even believe the day before happened? We met Lucca, the bike guide with his company FatBikeParadise.com and Bikeiteasytravel.com at the Castello di Torrechiara (clear tower) parking lot for a re-do of yesterday without the gastronomic add-ones. It was magnificent as we rode to the top of the colline (little hills) and rode along the empty back roads viewing the countryside, vineyards and Alps in the distance. Europe is taken with the e-bike phenomena and this was a fun twist to the day and made the hills more than easy. The bikes also were the very fat tires now getting popular for in the US. Great for off-road and sand (he does desert and dune tours and also snow tours!!) Lucca is a jolly, enthusiastic fella who you feel immediately safe with. We rode in fields, on the back roads, dirt roads and in vineyards as we looped around 20 km back to the castle for an amazing lunch. Bravissimo.

E poi, we headed off for the 2.5 hour ride into Venice. Always interesting to enter Venice as a big bridge connects the mainland with the island city right beside the buses and trains going to the respective city. Into a water taxi and to our hotel. There are millions of hotels in Venice. If you choose the luxury route, there are lots of those too. We were originally booked into Ca' Sagredo, but opted for the Gritti Palace. Apparently the Ca'Sagredo is all that, and the price seemed so. Not that the Gritti is any bargain, but as a boutique almost private villa, we opted for no view at the Gritti. And glad we did....it's been redone having closed down 3 years ago for 18 months to totally re-do. It was heaven....the bar and restaurant float off the front of the hotel in the Grande Canal looking at Sant Salute, the Wake Forest Villa and the Peggy Guggenheim across the way....hard to beat. Our local guide says in her option that the Gritti, Europe and Regina and the Cipriani are the best in Venice....the Danieli, while having a enviable terrace restaurant, apparently is in need of an overhaul.

And then we did what you do in Venice...we walked and ogled and window-shopped and crossed the Ponti di Rialto. And had a drink on that fab bar and then went to dinner at Osteria Antiche. Looked pretty basic with all the traditional Venetian foods, until the waiter came and told us all the specials, which revolve around the fresh seafood of the day. Quite a refreshing change. Being very tourist savvy, the restaurants here have clearly picked up on the daily special model, which I don't remember seeing in other restaurants around the country. The wine again is regional, with several to savor especially Prosecco for spumante whites and Valpolicella for reds. The moon was full and the Piazza San Marco had flooded a bit with the high tides and the walk home.

 High Points: Too many to count. E-biking in the countryside; riding up the Grand Canal in a taxi; the Gritti Palace.

Low Points: A few biking mishaps; crowds in Venice; Captured moments: the snow covered Alps range An aside: The wines of Emilia Romagna are typically frizzante, or slightly fizzy known as the Lambrusco red and the Malvasia whites. Go for it. Unloved in the US, it'll transport you from your snobby vinotude to an open mind and mouth in the country at an al fresco trattoria in the Castello Torrechiara.

Hashtags: #biking meltdown; #brierpatchfall; #neverenoughfriedbreadproscuittoparmesanbalsamicsilver

 Saturday, May 21, 2016

We walked WAY over the 10,000 steps goal and only minorly got lost, though that is relative as we def went way out of our way, thus the 10k+ steps. From the Ponte dell'Academia to Campo Salute to San Marco and Vaporetto to Murano to the train station and throughout seemingly almost all of Venice except Buramo and Torcello. The crowds were numbing, esp in the popular areas, and interestingly, most were Italian tourists. But you dodged and ducked into the off-track interior and were rewarded to find the best pizza in Venice as recommended by another restaurant (because pizzeria al forno ligna (wood fireplaces) are not allowed for fear of burning the city down. This particular pizzeria is Sicilian and excellent....and out of the masses way. We topped off the day with a 30 minute gondola ride, which is skippable unless you just want to check a box. (It does get you onto the little canals and by La Felice opera house and it is after all a gondola ride in Venice.) Confession: we skipped the Doge palace and tower......lines were incredible and our regazzi were done with history and art. We did substitute San Giorgio and its bell tower which is just across from San Mark's and equally as high and a great view option.

Dinner took us to an outstanding restaurant, Oliva Nero. The owner is a stern, but savvy and amusing woman who clearly does it all from select the wines, cook, make the specials and wait tables. It has a nice outdoors and is quite upscale, but very casual. It seems to be widely known in Venice. That is a must and an excellent way to put the final touches on an excellent trip.

Highs: weather, Venice alleys and canals, getting on the water even if on a Vaporetto,

Lows: painful and expensive fines for having the wrong kind of Vaporetto ticket.

 Sunday, May 22, 2016

Sigh....ciao bella Italia

#italy #venice #lake como #emilio romagna

[aureliasaid]

SoCal - LA/San Diego 3/13-19/2016

Sunday, March 13, 2016

Flying into San Diego is an experience within itself as the airport is basically in the city center, right in a cove next to downtown and as we found out, directly overhead of the Little Italy area.  Have a window seat and watch as you can practically reach out and touch the patio chairs on the rooftops of the apartment buildings below.  The car rental area seems further than downtown from the airport.  We hopped our ride and headed to the US Grant hotel in the Gaslamp area.  An old landmark hotel, the lobby and restaurant are updated, but still feel rather old world and regal in the lobby. We were in a large deluxe room that was very bright and nice with a large modern bathroom.  City noise can apparently be a problem, but not for us.

We spent some time with the concierge and after a very quick jaunt down a bit of the Gaslamp district (anything that has the word “district” in its title sounds slimed and this was no different with lots of tat shops and strung out sorts. Maybe because it was Sunday night?) We split and headed over to Little Italy which was lively and hip.  Home to lots of restaurants, Italian and otherwise, there is something for everyone.  It is home for some of the craft breweries as well. We settled into Isola, a true thin crust, Italian style pizzeria and was content.

Asides: Despite its slimy appearance, there are supposedly very good restaurants in the Gaslamp district, namely Blue Point. Ballast Point is a fav local brewery....have a flight of beers there with over 40 of their beers on tap. Stone Brewery best known and largest.

Highs: Little Italy

Lows: Multitudes of homeless people

Captured moment: Planes landing over the tops of buildings

Monday, March 14, 2016

Joining the homeless with nowhere to hang our hat for the upcoming night, we uncharacteristically (and bravely for me) left these nights open since we were unsure of what to expect and what to do prior to coming. When our rate doubled at the US Grant, we followed my BFF/TTF's advice and reserved at L'Auberge Del Mar, in, duh, Del Mar. Then we headed out to catch the ferry at the Broadway pier to head to Coronado Island across the way. Renting bikes is the thing to do and can do in SD proper and take on the ferry or in Coronado.  If you have the time, rent SD side and then use them along the water there as well as in Coronado.  We rented straight off the ferry in Coronado, though there are plenty of places just a street in, and headed on the bike path out to the strand, past the Navy Special Forces base (SEALs - hello Will Martin) and then back to the Hotel Del Coronado, the Homestead/Breakers of the West Coast.  Huge and historical, its lobby is a wooden, classic beauty and the grounds are pretty and right on the ocean.  Orange Ave has nice shopping if you want, but we headed back to the ferry to grab lunch at Ballast Point Brewpub.  Since we were doing the cliff notes version of SD, or more appropriately, the Goose and Maverick fly-by version, we didn't have time for a tour specifically at Stone Brewery or one of the craft beer tours through the city.  

Agog at the planes flying in as we walked to Little Italy, we were underwhelmed by Ballast Point for other than drinking, but were intrigued by The Crack Shack, a fab outdoor, quick bite, but not fast food, place specializing in chicken. Beside a hot restaurant, Juniper and Ivy, you gotta love a restaurant who's T-shirt says "Cluck off, I'm hangry."

Grabbed our bags and gave ourselves a driving tour through Bilboa Park, which is huge and gorgeous and then headed north to Del Mar. Our first stop was to Point Lomo/Cabrillo National Monument, famous for its lighthouse and vista of the whole SD Bay Area (see pic). Then we cruised to Mission Beach, a Venice Beach wannabe and college kid party central. Fun to walk the boardwalk and famous for the wooden roller coaster, it's worth a stop, but not a stay. Onward through La Jolla and finally to Del Mar. L'Auberge Del Mar is a mini-Shutters-esque a la Santa Monica with its beach side u-shaped layout and vast open, contemporary, yet cozy lobby and large, folding glass doors opening to several layers of restaurants/bar and pool with an overhead mezzanine specially for viewing the renowned Pacific sunsets. (See pic) Dinner was at Jake's, the beach-side restaurant owned by the famous surfer from the area who also own's Duke's in La Jolla.  Convenient but forgettable.

An aside: So the sunset is THE thing not to miss.  Seeing the red ball dip below the ocean horizon is a coveted and profitable business.  Think about your spot and what you are going to drink well ahead of time or it will be gone before you know it.  

Another aside: Mission Beach, Del Mar, La Jolla and all points around San Diego are considered San Diego and people don't think twice about living in one area and heading to another and still say they live in San Diego. Can't impress enough the necessity of planning around traffic. Other hip areas in San Diego are up and coming neighborhoods such as North Park and Hillcrest.

Captured Moment: College spring breakers, beers in hand, barely clothed, loud and spewing expletives in their version of Myrtle Beach party house right on the boardwalk

Highs: Anytime on a bike; a Ballast Point beer at The Crack; weather clearing for great views at Cabrillo National Monument; the lobby and common spaces at L'Auberge;

Lows: cloudy and windy in the morning; biking on a busy Orange Ave on Coronado

Tuesday, March 15, 2016

Plan for the day: hike in Torrey Pines State Park and wander the streets of La Jolla.  There are many ways to hike in Torrey Park, but we opted to walk there via beach and do some of the hikes within the park.  This was amazing.  We actually walked high upon the cliffs, but it doesn't go the whole way to TP and a bit of a cluster to figure out how to get to the park from there, so it's safest to walk the whole way on the beach. The Pacific is flat out gorgeous with HUGE waves, each that seem to stretch continuously from Baja to Seattle. Torrey Pines is breathtaking with high vistas, a variety of easy hikes and lots of terrains with gorgeous wild flowers in bloom.

We ended at the Torrey Pines Lodge and Golf Course, which is beautiful.  (see pic) Rustic contemporary, the Lodge, grounds and golf course are meticulous and manicured. Opted for lunch there outside over plan A of lunch in La Jolla. Excellent decision.

Übered to La Jolla and walked around, mainly over to see the seals and get an up close view of the waves crashing.  It's true, the area does need some deodorant and we left a bit less charmed than the day before when we passed though. Back to catch the sunset in Del Mar and dinner at Market, which was the best meal of the entire week.  Amazing.

Captured moment: Sign in Torrey State Park that read: Nudity is not allowed in the California State Park System. That would be a given and no need for posting in many states....

Asides: Weather is amazing; coolish on the coast with breezes coming off the chilly Pacific, with highs in upper 60's and lows in the 50's at night. The lack of humidity and crystal blue skies is what brings people to live and love it here. They also love the more laid back feel to San Diego vs the more sophisticated Cali cities.

Highs: The entire hike, esp the views of the Pacific and the wildflowers; lunch at The Lodge at Torrey Pines; a truly perfect Pacific sunset; meal at Market;

Lows: Didn't bring sunscreen and the sun was intense.

Wednesday, March 16, 2016

Lovely al fresco breakfast, though insiders told us we should have headed to Roberto's tacos for a "scambler." Started driving north to LA via the Pacific Coast Highway rather than the interstate, stopping in Laguna for lunch.  Laguna is happening, with lots of personality and amazing coast. Loved lunch at The Cliff, which was good and incredible views of the Heisler Park rocky coast and the sandy beach below as well. Heisler Park is gorgeous and worth walking through off Cliff Drive.

Off again and loved driving through Huntington Beach, famous for surfing contests and volleyball, where the flat beach goes for 10 miles. Finally got off the PCH and onto the 405 (they never say I-405) with stop and go traffic fittingly welcoming us to LA. Got off on Sunset Blvd and argued with traffic even more until we arrived at the Beverly Hills Hotel, pink and all. We were in the Cabanas, #7 to be exact, supposedly Marilyn Monroe's fav, and it was very secluded and retro-ish glam, tucked in amongst the lush foliage. Not sure how these compare to the rooms in the main building, but they supposedly are getting a facelift soon. Considering the price and the reputation, the decor felt a slight bit tired, but that is truly champagne problems and splitting hairs. What makes this place is the history, grounds, and Dorchester service, which is impeccable.

We decided to walk to Rodeo Drive environs, which is actually further than we expected. The homes lining this area, while nice, are not quite as expected...looked rather like what you might find other nice neighborhoods. For the more quintessential homes, head to Bel Air.....that's mansion land. Rodeo Drive was as expected, pretty empty save for Asian shoppers. The stores themselves are a wow and a fun way to pass the time.  Beverly and Canon streets are the place to shop for more normal people. Popped into the Beverly Wilshire, which no doubt is fab, but was underwhelmed by the small and boring lobby.

Dinner was at Buchon, Thomas Keller a la Napa French Laundry fame's French bistro which was quite good.  Rezzies easy to get though all through our trip. I'm thinking it's because there are so many restaurants and it's lots of trouble to get to them?

Snicker: Wait staff never fails to ask if there are any food allergies or preferences before they take your order.  Only in California.

Aside: We turned in our rental car early not wanting to deal with traffic by driving ourselves plus $50 valet fees at the hotel. Everyone drives and public transport is terrible, but we liked our taxis and uber just fine.

Highs: weather at 75 perfect degrees; view from The Cliff restaurant in Laguna; Gnudi of fresh burrata, grilled asparagus,  and pea shoots, both of which were in season at Bouchon;

Lows: blisters from the unexpected long walk to Rodeo Dr in not great walking shoes

Thursday, March 17

Had breakfast in the famous Fountain Coffee Room counter downstairs in the hotel and put on our tourist attire for Hollywood Blvd.  Piece of advice from our LA friend: keep wallet close as the area is sorta seedy.  Well said. It’s LA’s Times Square, but Times Square has cleaned up its act comparatively. Grauman's Chinese Theater is smashed in between other buildings and the walk of fame of stars' stars is fun to see, but doesn't take much time. Bought a ticket for a 2 hr tour in an open air van to see the stars homes.  The tour of homes was not so impressive, but it was a great way to see the city and learn fun facts as we headed into Hollywood Hills, Mulholland Dr, Beverly Hills, Bel Air, Sunset strip, and West Hollywood.  Easy and entertaining way to cover lots of ground. Passed on lunch at Musso and Frank (which looked like something out of NYC or from the 50's in old Hollywood - this of course, part of its charm) and headed to The Getty Museum.

Insiders will tell you that the point of The Getty is to see the buildings and grounds, check out the Impressionists and see the view which is exactly what we did.  Gorgeous and huge, the place is very cool and the Impressionist art was perfect -about 20 paintings from each master and that's it.  The Mapplethorpe and Wagstaff Photography is also very interesting, but then that was enough - after all, we had a ball game to watch as the Tar Heels were set to play in the opening round of the NCAA tourney.  Met our fellow Tar Heels at their hometown watering spot called The Parlor on Melrose in West Hollywood. Our buddy described it as fraternity like and that was correct....smelly, large, loud and lots of drunks esp since it was St. Patrick's Day, but did find some Carolina Blue comrades.

Post victory, we ate at Osteria Mozza a few blocks down, which was delicious. Try for the back room if possible.

An Aside: LA is hard to describe - super spread out, SO MUCH TRAFFIC, neighborhoods are a smished up mishmash of businesses, houses....not much urban planning. Anyway, plan accordingly.

Highs: Seeing The Getty; being driven through the neighborhoods

Lows: The Parlor in general, as warned; 41-40 at halftime over a play-in #16 seed.

Captured Moment: Tar Heel fan watching the game in the latest and greatest Nike shoes Carolina blue, with NC logo on the tongue and the Argyle on the heel.  Sweet. Ordered them online.

Friday, March 18th, 2016

For our final night and perhaps the culmination of the 25th wedding anniversary, we checked into the Bel Air Hotel, which is an oasis in an oasis, plain and simple. Our room was beyond lovely with a modern, yet serene feel. But we had miles to go before we could enjoy this. Off to Warner Brothers in Burbank for their studio tour, which is lots of fun. Def worth it and then to downtown to see the Walt Disney Concert Hall, the famous Frank Geary stainless steel marvel. And then, chill time at the Bel Air.  Dinner was at their Wolfgang Puck's restaurant, which is delicious, but the outdoor area and small indoor setting is the reason to go.

An aside: Downtown seemed just to be another neighborhood and not so special, 12 miles from Beverly Hills.  Might skip unless you can give it more attention that we did.

Captured moment: Glass of prosecco in the small garden at the Bel Air bar.

Highs: Everything about the Bel Air; seeing the sets at WB;

Lows: Leaving at 7:30 am on Saturday; traffic.

Recommendation: Absolutely...fun to understand SoCal and its attraction and very different way of life than we are used to.  The weather alone is reason to go, though they had had a week of storms the week before we came.  I like the way we did it, and while I thought LA was going to be the pinnacle, the real pleasure for us was the SD area and working our way up the coast.

Random notes from locals and those more experienced than us:

Creds and thanks to BFF Duncan Brantley, the ultimate non-native local, for his total hands-on tourist planning for us:

A LOCAL’S LOS ANGELES

Here’s your hand-crafted, personalized Los Angeles adventure information package.

WEST SIDE:

GETTY MUSEUM 1200 Getty Center Drive  Los Angeles, CA 90049 [phone] Open Thursday 10am to 6pm.  Free.  Car parking $7.

3rd STREET PROMENADE/Santa Monica. Lots of shopping and food. VENICE CANALS. DGB Favorite.

AGO.  Venice.  Italian. GJELINA. Venice.  Hip.  Delicious.  Lunch or supper.  Don’t miss

  the butterscotch cup. GTA/Gjelina Take Away.  Venice.  Breakfast or lunch. CHEZ JAY.  Santa Monica.  Dumpy dive Bar.  A Favorite.

MID-TOWN/BEVERLY HILLS & WEST HOLLYWOOD:

THE GROVE & THE FARMER’S MARKET Fairfax Avenue & Third.  Shopping, lunch (Loteria Mexican Grill-- don’t miss the shredded beef taco) and movies.

PRADA STORE Kem Koohaas, architect. [phone]   469 N Rodeo Dr. Beverly Hills, CA

TASCHEN BOOKSTORE [phone]   354 N Beverly Dr.  Beverly Hills, CA DGB Favorite.

MUSEUM OF TELEVISION AND RADIO [phone]   465 N Beverly Dr.  Beverly Hills, CA

MYSTERY PIER BOOKS. West Hollywood.  First editions.  On Sunset, hidden behind Book Soup, which is also worth a visit.  A Favorite.

DRIVING TOUR. Beverly Hills, Bel Air and Mulholland Drive.

THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY. Lunch, supper or drinks.  This is now what passes for old Hollywood in Beverly Hills.

THE POLO LOUNGE at the Beverly Hills Hotel. Old school.  It’s legendary.  A Favorite.

CANTER’S on Fairfax.  Jewish deli.  Lunch and/or supper. CHATEAU MARMONT.  Lunch or drinks in the garden.  A Favorite.

AVALON HOTEL in Beverly Hills.  Hipster Hollywood EL COMPADRE.  Get the flaming margarita. BEL AIR HOTEL.  Beautiful.  Expensive.

PINK’S.  Hot Dogs.  Classic. JONES.  On Santa Monica.  Terrific cafe for lunch. Across from

the old Warner Hollywood

FORMOSA CAFE. Drinks.  Old Hollywood.  Bogart, Clark Gable,

  Sinatra.  As seen in L.A. Confidential.  A Favorite. EL CARMEN.  West Hollywood.  Mexican.  Great looking room with

  luche libre portraits.   A Favorite. LITTLE DOOR.  West Hollywood.  Romantic. ANGOLINI OSTERIA.  On Beverly near The Grove.  Italian.

  Fantastic.  Would be a favorite if I went there more. SPAGO.  Beverly Hills   Call b/t 3&4:  310-385-0880. PENINSULA HOTEL.  Beverly Hills.  Fancy spot for a nightcap.

HOLLYWOOD:

ARCLIGHT. The best movie theater.

GRAUMANN’S CHINESE THEATER. Movie star hands and footprints in concrete.  Lots of fun but be careful because it can be a little sketchy.  Hold onto your wallet.  Park in the Hollywood & Highland deck.  A Favorite.

MADAME TROUSSAUD’S WAX MUSEUM. Hollywood-centric.  Freaky fun.

25 DEGREES. In the Roosevelt Hotel.  The hamburger is fantastic. DGB Favorite.

MUSSO & FRANK. Since 1919.  Really old school  Drinks and/or supper.  A Favorite.

LUCKY STRIKE Bowling.

YAMASHIRO. Amazing views of Hollywood, especially at night.

THE VALLEY & PASADENA:

WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR/Burbank 818-954-1744 or 818-846-1403 for reservations 4000 Warner Blvd.   Burbank, CA 91505

SMOKE HOUSE/Burbank. Old school.  DGB Favorite.

NORTON SIMON MUSEUM/Pasadena Some say it’s the best art museum in SoCal.

HUNTINGTON LIBRARY Pasadena.

DOWNTOWN:

DISNEY CONCERT HALL. TAKAMI.  I’m not a sushi expert, but there are beautiful

downtown views from the 21st floor.  On Wilshire near

Figueroa.  Look for the elevator.

OLIVERA STREET.   Preserved Mexican street. UNION STATION.  Architectural gem. BOTTEGA LOUIE.  Big, loud, delicious and fun.  A Favorite.

OTHER LUNCH IDEAS: Check Yelp for more info.

IN-N-OUT. My favorite fast food.  Get the double double, fries well.  A Favorite.

LOTERIA. Mexican. Any of the locations.  A Favorite.

DAILY GRILL. Any of the locations.

###

And from other experienced LA travelers:

L A | N O T E S

Hotels:

Chateau Marmot

Sunset Tower

Beverly Hills Hotel

The London

Midway

Wiltshire

Four Seasons

Hotel Bel Air * my favorite. We call it "the bubble" because it's so separate from everything nestled in the hills of Bel Air.

Eats:

Sugarfish: sushi, fantastic

HBA: Wolfang Puck, always exceptional food and impeccable service

Alma: http://alma-la.com 2014 best Chef

Republique

PeArl

Au Fudge : just opened...Jennifer Beal and Justin T new urban market

If you have lunch at Loteria, be sure to get at least one shredded beef taco

Shopping streets in Beverly Hills:

Canon

Beverly

Rodeo

Melrose

Culture:

LACMA

Getty

Galleries are fantastic in the rising downtown art warehouses

Add The Broad. Museum, just opened this year. Try for tickets online.

If you go to LACMA, become a member at the member desk $60, then ask for Rain Room tickets and James Turrell tickets. They give you same day times  tickets which are basically sold out otherwise

Polo Lounge, at Beverly Hills Hotel or Poolside, for people watching... If you're in to that:)

Sports:

All sorts, check local websites

San Diego area:

Del Mar a good beach town - ride bikes, paddle board, stay at Auberge del Mar; Torrey Pines can hike all around; can hike to - 20 minute drive to San Diego

Don’t eat at the Auberge.  The food is only meh.  The bar is fun though.

The sushi place is right across the street from Auberge - Shimbashi Izakaya.  You can eat outside and the fish is first rate

All the horse people eat at Pamplemousse.  It is close to the track.

Roberto’s Tacos just up Carmel Valley Rd. is a MUST for either breakfast burrito or tacos for lunch.  It is a roadside stand and you either take it away or eat it outside.

Mille Fleurs is in Rancho Santa Fe.  Amazing.  Expensive but so good.  Try to sit outside if it is nice.  It is a drive but worth it if you can get a reservation.

Market is a local farm to table restaurant too.  Fancy-ish.

Make sure you walk on the beach.  You could walk/run from the Auberge to the inlet, get up on the bridge at Torrey Pines and walk over the inlet, walk back down to the beach and walk miles almost to San Diego.  Also along that beach, there is a trail UP to Torrey Pines, which is great.  Look for the steps as you walk towards San Diego after the inlet.

Rent wetsuits and paddle boards - so fun to paddle board in the Pacific but it’s COLD!

Don't stay in La Jolla, but go for a day trip

Del Coronado; ask for a newly refurbished room.

#california #usa

[aureliasaid]

Atlantis Resort, Paradise Island, Nassau, Bahamas 12/27/2015-1/1/2016

The Skinny: Fam trip with ages 13, 16, 18, 21, 51, 52, 53, 54 and 89 years old. Headed to Atlantis on Paradise Island for 5 days of sun and fun.

Day 1 Sunday, December 27, 2015 

Travel Day - Never easy, but one of the reasons we chose to come to Atlantis - for the ease of getting here. Two hours flat from Charlotte. Forget getting a car service to pick you...just take a taxi which was a total of about $50 vs the $125 service that never showed. Arrive to find that the Lost City has def been found....by LOADS of people.  A mix of Vegas and Busch Gardens, there is something for every level: to stay, to eat, to do which can be fab or horrific depending on your purpose and attitude. Spoiler alert, for our frame of mind, it turned out great especially when considering 13 years old to 89 years old.

The clientele here never ceases to amaze.  A combo of every American ethnicity from multitudes of families to the swinger sort and plenty of foreigners from all over gives you eye candy all day and all night.  The outfits are mind-blowing and meant to be so until you ultimately start to glaze over and become numb to them and not even notice - most of the time.  Tats are almost required. But this is part of the fun for sure.

We stayed at The Reef, part of the Reef/Cove complex, which are the more exclusive accommodations; while the Reef is plenty nice, stay at The Cove - if you can afford The Reef, you can afford The Cove and it is just that much nicer - more attractive building, restaurants are located there, closer to the main campus, turn-down service, etc.  The assumption is that if you stay at The Reef, it is the same amenities as The Cove and that is incorrect.  However, don't be too jealous (as we were initially) of the Cain, which is the adult only private pool for Cove residents only - it is Miami Beach and Vegas combined with a loud thumping DJ and live gambling tables.  It made the shared Cove and Reef pool seem pretty great.

If you stay in some of the other accommodations, be prepared for the same DJ scene music by the pools and LOTS of kiddies.  Get out early to reserve chairs or better, grease a cabana boy the day before to hold chairs for you.  You'll need to do this at The Reef/Cove area as well and you won’t be sorry to part with that money.

Got the scooter for our 89 year old Granddad - highly recommend if mobility is a problem cause the property is beyond massive. Reserve that ahead and get a handicap room while you are at it.  The whole place is a mix of OTT/tacky and attractive.  For example, the casino has three beyond fabulous HUGE Dale Chihuly glass sculptures: the Glass Gate, The Sun, The Moon and Sea Floor. They should be ogled, but are probably lost on most of the patrons who are both probably unaware of the significance and too absorbed in their gaming to notice. Likewise, the grounds are immaculate and lovely, but with Disney-wannabe rock formations tossed in and not so attractive high rise buildings meant to look like the presumably Lost City.

After getting situated, we strolled the grounds.  All slides, pools etc close at 5pm, at least in the winter time. We had dinner at ChopStix, which was marginal and super loud inside.

General Observations of the Day: The elevators in The Reef are the best thing going -  plenty of them and fast.

Reef rooms are large, with huge bathrooms and quite nice with a discreet but full kitchen if you desire to save some bucks, esp with small ones who don't need $20 chicken fingers.

Eat off campus - lots of great restaurants on the island that are better, cheaper and have more character.

Highs: Weather, rooms, people watching, Chihuly glass sculptures, the casino

Lows: No private car awaiting; masses of people, the casino, loud restaurants

An aside: cabanas while way pricey are virtually impossible to get as the casino has them tied up for their high rollers. In the  casino, blackjack tables are scarce and low $ amounts hard to find at night.

#lowexpectations #cabanaboykey

Day 2 - Monday, 12/28/2015

Joined the masses in the fitness center, which is a bit of a cluster trying to get into classes or on a machine since you can only sign up day of, so get there early. Afterwards is breakfast which despite the long line, moves quickly.

Had our lounge chairs waiting for us as planned for the day before with cabana boy Raheim and $40 later we were soaking up the rays on the beach off to the left as far as possible from the masses. Lunch daily was at the beach cafe which is a mad house, but the most convenient thing.  Teens headed for the slides and such. Late dinner rezzies at NoBu sent us to the casino to try our hand beforehand.  Drinking and gambling are both 18, but they don't seem to be too bothered about checking that.  NoBu was fine, but a long wait for the sushi bar. We hit the casino a bit more after dinner and our collegiates met buddies at the Aura nightclub.  Island hotspot and a scene. Word is, it helps to be a girl to get it.....they didn't make spin class the next morning.

General Observation of the Day: Wifi is spotty; if I were doing it again, I would purchase extra time through my cellular to make calls, texts, etc.

Breakfast in The Cove is a a fab feast; go ahead and pony up for the full breakfast...the included continental is fine, but your eyes and tummy will be wistful for the other items.

Highs: weather, fish sandwich from beach cafe, Bahamian waters, checking out the outfits esp en route to the restaurants and casino, breakfast

Lows: beach lunch options inconvenient; late rezzies at restaurants

Day 3 - Tuesday, 12/29/2015

Repeat exercise, big and late breakfast, beaching it, and slides though the fellas headed to a new resort on the west end of the island called Albany to play golf which is apparently all that. Private development, but available for rentals. Depending on who you ask, it is outstanding or Atlantis-esque, but nevertheless, it is meant to wow...apparently the New Year's Party was raucous.

Headed to the Marina Village to stroll and see the shops and boats which is a nice diversion for a lunch or bit of shopping.

Back in time to watch the Bowl games, namely UNC vs Baylor in the casino sports bar.  HUGE screens and betting all around.  It wasn't a happy ending. Dinner was at the One and Only Ocean Club.  The property is quite lovely and enviable accommodations.  However, dinner at The Dune was disappointing and beyond painful to the wallet.  I would still go back and try it again though. Don't order steak....who does that in the Bahamas?  Our guys.

General Observation: Much as we were moaning ahead of time about the crowds and clientele at Atlantis, it is actually quite a great spot depending on your purpose because there is plenty to do for all and possibly better than other places for our age span. It is a pretty well-oiled machine.

Shuttles run constantly to every place you want on campus, but we usually walked. Crowd watching just too good to miss and helps get acclimated.

Highs: weather, lounging, sports bar if you are so inclined

Lows: lounge chair neighbors

Day 4 - Wednesday 12/30/2015

Repeat daily above, though all offspring headed off on the morning trip from Royal Tower marina on the snorkel/snuba trip which came back with favorable reviews.  Snobby hubby upped his opinion in general after getting on a boat, despite being on board with 30 other people, both by the fact that getting out on the water helps his mood and that the snuba/snorkel area was very good and fun.  They left by 8:30 and were back by Noon. Tennis and basketball were discussed amongst the under 25, but the water slides took the priority.

Meanwhile, the over 25'ers took a private car tour of the islands which is a good activity when one can't always participate in more active pass-times. MJN Tours, a glorified car service, was our host and we got EVERY DETAIL of the island including the prison and more local areas.  Maybe could have passed on that.  But it was a means to an end as we ended our tour meeting local friends at their home in Old Fort Bay, which has a very cool club house and gorgeous beach.  Afterwards they treated us to a famous Rum Dum at the Lyford Cay Little Club.  Hate to admit we felt much more at home with OKP and it was a delightful respite from the throngs and thongs at Atlantis.  Dinner was at Mahogany House, just outside Old Fort and Lyford and definitely the best meal of the week.  Prices not quite as painful either.  

General Observation of the Day:When making dinner reservations, ask if there is an outside eating area and request to be there - otherwise, you will be inside because who doesn't like al fresco and it cuts down significantly on noise which was deafening at every place, even Mahogany House.

Highs: weather, Old Fort Club, Lyford Rum Dum, Mahogany House,

Lows: seeing the prison on our tour

Day 5 Thursday, 12/31/2015 New Year's Eve

Repeat Day 2,3,4 for activities. Punted on our New Year's Eve Atlantis restaurant dinner reservations at Casa d'something in favor of The Poop Deck just across the bridge.  An open air, local spot that is fun, very casual and a breath of fresh air, no pun intended, especially from the Atlantis environment.  A mix of locals and tourists and while the atmosphere is way casual, they know their patrons with a small, but fairly sophisticated wine list.  A definite if you are staying at Atlantis.

Headed back to get ready for the New Year's event of Diana Ross in concert. She still has it and was fun, but note the Imperial Ballroom is not the best venue for music both for seeing the stage and acoustically.  But, still great to see the legendary and original diva.

New Year's is a BIG deal in the Bahamas.  There are serious fireworks outside Atlantis and the downtown parade is world famous just behind Times Square. It starts at 2am, complete with bleachers lining the main street and tickets sold to get a bleacher seat and goes until 8 or 9 am New Year's Day.  We passed, but one of our teens joined a school friend and her family who go every year as a tradition.  Its televised as well.  Happy to have been tucked in personally.

Highs: Weather, The Poop Deck, Diana Ross, slides/rapid river

Lows: 0

Meant to do - 1) Go down the big slide - not really.  2) Shop the duty-free - kinda sorta, but wasn't overly bummed to miss.  3) Play tennis. Oh well.  4) Go out on private fishing charter/tour the outer islands - now that is definitely something we should have done and might have with more time.  5) Go over the bridge and walk through Nassau proper which is quaint and while there, do as the Bahamians do and take in some fresh conch salad under the bridge and go to the fish fry area for fresh seafood. Truly sorry to have missed that excursion. 6) Other options are to take the touristy, but popular speedboat to Exuma or go the more lux route by flying there privately for the day and going around on a power boat.  If you got the dough, time and urge, the Exumas are amazingly beautiful.

Additional notes from a local:

Only other suggestion if you want something very local... At night the resturant is called The Poop Deck. Casual. It is just over the bridge. Get a cab though, don't walk at night.

The other place that is fun during the day is called the Green Parrot. It is super casual, on the water , kind of a sports bar/ marina type food. Fish sandwiches, salads , conch, and burgers. He has two localities, one on PI but I'm not sure what it looks like anymore. Smaller. The other is just over the bridge on the water front. He opened a marina in front and its nice to site outside and see the boats. Lots of local people there.

The other thing that is fun, weather depending, is a day trip to EXUMA or a half day snorkel. EXUMA is amazing and worth the trip. It is called Power Boat adventures. Very touristy but a good way to see the islands. They pack a lunch and show you around EXUMA. Iguanas and wild boar, shelling and snorkeling. It is a power boat so it is FAST.

Another is called Stuart Cove dive.  They do half day snorkel trips or if you are certified you can dive or do a shark dive. Good company, the hotel will book these for you.

The dolphin encounter through the hotel is fun.

Shops to see on Bay Street : most are the same as in your hotel but one very nice jewelry store is called Coin Of the Realm.  They have different things. John Bull, also another Jewlerly and watch, handbags etc. Jo Malone store, Bobby Brown. If you like all that.

Mahagony House is very hip and happening. Wonderful food.

Other restaurants:

Captain's Table

Cafe Matisse

General observation: pre-arrange wheelchair service at airports for Sr. Citizens and then recheck with flight attendants and when you de-plane.  Not really reliable, but certainly gets you through Passport control and security fast.

Nassau Airport is amazingly good for an island.

Recommendation: Great fun on different levels. Once is probably enough, but I would go back, especially if there was a purpose like the Tar Heels playing in a tournament there. Its a family place and that’s probably the only reason I would go unless you love to gamble.  Plan ahead and spend time off Paradise Island, for dinners, shopping, etc.  Get your mind around it and you will have a great time.

#bahamas #nassau #atlantis