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Hey, I've got a question about haori collars. Which is the correct way to wear them, folded or unfolded? I've seen both styles. Is there a difference between genders how you're supposed to have them?

Hi! I am not exactly sure what you are refering to:

If you mean: are haori collars crossed like a kimono's (left over right), then the answer is no. Haori are loosely fastened accross the chest via little ties called 羽織紐 haori himo. Other types of coats can have snap fasteners or ties. See pic below, haori is the third from the left:

If you mean: are haori collars large and folded like some women's kimono do, the answer is => all haori I have ever encountered had their collar folded and sewn :)

For reference, those are the three types of kimono collars tailoring:

広衿 hiroeri - kimono collar is large and meant to be folded in two by wearer. Used for women's kimono as it give a lot of leeway/comfort depending on body variations.

撥衿 bachieri - kimono collar is tailored folded and sewn shut, wider at the ends than at the nape. Used for women's kimono as larger ends drapes nicely across the chest.

棒衿 bôeri - kimono collar is tailored folded and sewn shut, with an uniform width; Used for men's and children's kimono.

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Edo period types of hakama pants, fantastic chart by Edo-lover Nadeshico Rin. You can see here from left to right, top to bottom:

Fundomi hakama 踏込袴 - pants with a narrow bottom hem, a type of nobakama (see below)

Tattsuke hakama 裁付袴 - pants tight below the knee, sometimes refered as "ninja pants" (= Iga hakama). Those were worn by many, from samurai to servants and craftmen.

Umanoribakama 馬乗袴 - lit. "riding pants", wide hakama with high gusset split legs for confortable horse riding.

Nagabakama 長袴 - formal trailing hakama worn by samurai from late Muromachi era.

Andonbakama - skirt-like hakama worn by Meiji period female teachers and students (hence why it's sometimes called onna bakama). A boy version appeared after mid-Meiji.

Yamabakama 山袴 - daily-life work pants with narrow legs and sometimes a gathered bottom hem. Name greatly varies depending on areas and time. A direct descendant of this style are women's monpe もんぺ.

Nobakama 野袴 - shorter hakama with black velvet hem, worn by travelling samurai. It was also part of firefighters' gear.

Hirabakama 平袴 - the "classic" ankle lenght men hakama pants, with a low gusset which means it looks nice when sitting (tailoring is hence different from the umanori, see above). Also called hanbakama 半袴, those were longer than the ancient kobakama 小袴 and shorter than formal trailing nagabakama (see above).

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KimoNovember Day 4: this kimono is a bit of a puzzle - the pattern and construction fits a houmongi, but the fabric feels like a bedsheet 😂 I’m not sure what formality it should be, so I’ve styled it a bit more casually.

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Photography © Tokyo Views

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Second book of the same series!

This one has kitsuke instructions and more detail on the poses. It’s especially good for cosplayers and photography sessions set in the Edo era!

江戸コスチュームポーズ資料集: 連続動作と演出編 ISBN9784766124125

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#complexitygraphics #complexitykimono #kimono #tatianaplakhova

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yukata

Instagram: @drop_tokyo

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Erika Toda

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Obi and kimono by Gofukuyasan. Japan

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"Dragon Skin" Heeled Boots by Malicious X Japan

New boot created by Malicious X, a Japanese subculture fashion brand founded by a female Japanese movie special effects artist turned designer. We first met the designer when we spotted her carrying one of her early handmade eyeball bags on the street in Harajuku. The evolution of her brand has been amazing. Malicious X on Instagram

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If you have any questions about Japanese footwear and look for references check this site!

#japan #japan traditional fashion #traditional japanese #cosplay reference #shoe making

[animestreetfashion]

Second book of the same series!

This one has kitsuke instructions and more detail on the poses. It’s especially good for cosplayers and photography sessions set in the Edo era!

江戸コスチュームポーズ資料集: 連続動作と演出編 ISBN9784766124125

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By Japanese embroiderer juno/ユノ @junoembroidery